Late-Night Eats: The Four Meat Pizza At Nova

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On a Thursday evening, just past 10 p.m., Oak Cliff was sleepy. Yelp said Boulevardier was open till 11 but the staff said otherwise. Same went for Bolsa, which offered cocktails and beer but no food. That's what I get for trusting a third-party source instead of getting operating hours direct from the source. Thankfully, just down Davis Street, past Cesar's 24-hours lengua tacos with the taste buds intact, Nova was wide awake.

See Also: Charlie Papaceno Runs a Damn Fine Bar. I Finally Had Lakewood Landing's Midnight Corn Dog, and It Sucked The gastro pub billing doesn't quite fit here; the feel is more 1950s lounge than English basement bar. But the food is decent and the kitchen's open till midnight. The weather was perfect and the patio was filled with customers holding beer bottles in one hand and cigarettes in the other. Inside the bar was full, save two stools.

Nova opened in the summer of 2010 and has settled in nicely despite its location, well outside the Bishop Arts District loop. Excluding the industry folk lucky enough to count out their tips before last call, the crowd skews a little older. Larry might be the oldest. He was born right here in Oak Cliff in 1949 and has seen the neighborhood change a little during his tenure. Back then he repaired TVs, but now he works on dental equipment and drops in on what he calls his local now and then.

I followed his cue and ordered a four-meat pizza. The crust is nothing special, a standard-issue round with a little extra lift, but the toppings are decent. I could do without the peperoni and ground beef, but the sopressata has a little tang and the spicy pork sausage is from Jimmy's. A burger with a glistening bun landed on the bar to my left and I was awash with envy.

I've always been more of a mechanical guy. I can take apart a carburetor but I'll fumble with a turn signal. Larry tried to convince me it's easy. As the bar tender boxed up his leftover pie and I told Larry about a light in an old house that gave me headaches and he smiled like a man who had been there first hand. "Yeah," he said as the grin spread across his bearded face. "A three-way switch is a bitch."

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