Eat This

Luna's Cocina Near Fair Park Has an Awesome Gordita, Requires NASCAR Driving Skills

Yesterday on the way to Craft and Growler, I spotted red electric "open" sign at the corner pupuseria, raspas and taco stand, Luna's Cocina. Each letter lit up one at a time O... P... E... N..., like a slow taunt to my stomach. A slightly inappropriate right turn from a far left lane was involved, but I felt impelled to check it out.

This small spot looks like it has been around for decades. A framed vintage picture propped between security bars and the window shows of a chef with his family, taken in almost the exact spot where the photograph sits.

I ordered a gordita with chicken. The woman who took my order through the sliding glass window at the front of the small resaturant was nice and the food took about five minutes to arrive. I faulted by not snapping a picture of the thick gordita, primarily because from the outset it appeared as though the pocket was mostly filled with iceberg lettuce and little else.

However, that was my folly. As I worked my way through the hot pocket, it was like digging through a treasure chest to find the loot. Thick chunks of juicy chicken were nestled at the bottom. The gordita had been toasted on a grill, giving the outside a slight crispiness that gave way to a moist and soft inside.

That's all I tried, but after the care that was taken constructing that one little meal -- from the fresh crisp lettuce to what I presume was slow-cooked chicken -- I look forward to working through the menu.

Other menu items include breakfast plates, breakfast tacos, enchiladas, tamales, tostadas, tortas, sopes and there are a few signs about pupusas. There's also a Mexican burger that comes with a slice of ham, avocado, beans and jalapeños along with the usual toppings. I bet we need to add that to the list, wouldn't you agree?

Luna's Cocina at 4300 Parry Ave. is open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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Lauren Drewes Daniels is the Dallas Observer's food editor. She started writing about local restaurants, chefs, beer and kouign-amanns in 2011. She's driven through two dirt devils and is certain they were both some type of cosmic force.