We've maybe been guilty of overhyping the opening of Brian Luscher's meat heaven in Deep Ellum, but only because we're really excited about this sausage. Finally, after over a year of waiting, Luscher's has opened its doors. We were there on Opening Day to report back.
The exterior of the building is easy on the eyes, but the real magic takes place once you've gotten past those doors. Place your order at the counter, but good luck settling on just one of Luscher's house-made specialties. There are sandwiches, sausages of all kinds, and quirky little offerings that will soon become your go-to as you gear up for a long night of drinking in Deep Ellum.
The "Eye-talian" Beef, a nod to our apparent inability to pronounce the word "Italian," is made with shaved wagyu beef and house giardinera. The giardinera is probably spicier than what you'd find in Chicago, thanks in large part to a healthy dose of fresh jalapenos. Luscher has also created a pork version of the Italian beef sandwich, made with garlic-and-pepper rubbed Berkshire pork shoulder.
The sausage menu is equally noteworthy. The Post Oak Red Hots that Luscher smoked in the parking lot of the White Rock Local Market are as good as ever, served with Lemley's tomatoes, pickled sport pepper, and brown mustard a la its Chicagoan inspiration. The version I tried with just the spicy brown mustard was exactly what I had been missing from weekends at the market.
Luscher's has also somehow been able to improve on everyone's favorite drunk food, Whataburger's "B.O.B," or "Breakfast on a Bun." In this version, the rubbery fast food eggs have been replaced by a sunny side up Vital Farms egg, and Luscher's breakfast sausage, which is next-level good. A splash of Texas Pete and the butter-drenched toasted bun make this formerly humble sandwich everything you could ever need to either cure a hangover or fend one off.
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SHOW ME HOW
The menu's specials aren't running just yet -- the manager at the counter said yesterday that they would be coming once the restaurant has its footing -- but they are also worth the wait. I've got a calendar reminder set up to alert me to three Wednesdays from now, when hopefully they will be serving "Francheezies" -- bacon-wrapped and cheese-stuffed Red Hots tucked into half of a grilled cheese. Go ahead and call the doctor, you're probably going to want to re-up those cholesterol meds.
Luscher's double-fried fries are a solid entry for the best in the neighborhood. Hopefully Luscher's will throw one of those specially-made containers of celery salt up on the counter.
The sodas also have a local and regional bent. Dublin Bottling Co's Doppelganger is served super fizzy and frosty cold, as is Chicago's favorite soda, Green River. This soda resembles lime sherbet in both coloring and flavor, and is oddly addictive. Better yet, sodas are served in those massive reusable plastic cups that you find at Dickey's, but even better because you didn't have to go to Dickey's.