Keep Dallas Observer Free

This Pizza Sub Should Be a Dallas Landmark

An open-faced view of the Pizza Sub at New York Sub.EXPAND
An open-faced view of the Pizza Sub at New York Sub.
Nick Rallo

Like the origin of the moon and widespread reports across the country of a persistent low-frequency humming, one of Earth’s greatest mysteries is the calzone. How do we classify this Naples-born classic? Unless there’s been some botched science, it’s not sandwich. Is a calzone a taco? No. Maybe a calzone is, simply, the world’s most delicious insomnia medication. That might be the right category. The truth is, like a pizza, a calzone is what it is. It is, in itself, a genre. It’s not a sandwich, it’s not a pizza, and it’s not a pizza-sandwich. A pizza sandwich is something else. Something unique.

Nearly 43 years later, the Pizza Sub, Dallas’ long-standing pizza sandwich, still holds a place on the menu at New York Sub. It’s a deep cut — hovering at No. 25 on the original menu above the deli counter — and a hidden gem in Dallas. Early in 2017, the sandwich was treated to an upgrade by New York Sub's new owners.

As usual, Andrew and Edi Kelley are waiting behind the deli counter on a recent visit. The husband-wife team took over the sub shop from Ken Harkness a few short years ago and gave the sandwiches a much-needed reboot. In the early days of New York Sub, a pizza sub got you a slab of melted cheese and Hormel pepperoni alongside a sugary, likely jarred tomato sauce. With a root beer, it was a salty glory with a melted slab of cheese. It worked its magic.

Ask for the sub extra toasty to get the cheese melted deep into the bread.EXPAND
Ask for the sub extra toasty to get the cheese melted deep into the bread.
Nick Rallo

Now, ordering the Kelleys’ upgraded Pizza Sub will land you warm, soft bread and slices of Dietz & Watson pepperoni, thick as a postcard, and sharp provolone fusing into the bread. They shake oregano and Parmesan over the pepperoni. San Marzano tomatoes provide the basis of the light and bright tomato sauce.

It’s best eaten quickly and in the restaurant, while the cheese is warm and fused with the tomato sauce beneath the soft bread. A good pepperoni sandwich means blistered edges and golden oil, each helping this sandwich evoke the memory of a slice of pizza with a cold soda.

As it goes with New York pizza, everyone has their own way of inhaling a pizza sandwich.

I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

“I love it with the pretzel bread with a side of ranch dressing,” Edi says. “It’s so good.”

For whatever reason that matters, 2019’s National Pizza Week runs through Jan. 19, and it’s a wonderfully arbitrary excuse to reintroduce your mouth to what might be the only pizza sub in DFW. It’s certainly one of the longest-running. Time has done great things to this sandwich. It's aged with the grace of new ingredients. Pepperoni is the rose of the food world: Who doesn't like a nice bouquet of pepperoni?

The upgrade doesn't kill the nostalgia, either. Cold cuts are better when they're a few bucks more, which means you’ll get pepperoni that tastes of spices, not pure salt. Dallas has many pizzerias, a few standing out above the crowd. The best ones have great sandwiches, but there’s nothing like a neighborhood pizza sub.

New York Sub, 3411 Asbury St. (Park Cities)

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.