Eat This

NHS Tavern's Reuben: Better The Second Time

When I first read the menu description for NHS Tavern's Reuben, I was smitten. In-house corned beef, gruyere cheese, jalapeño and onion kraut on marble rye and Russian dressing? I'll take two, please. But that anticipation was quickly replaced with disappointment when I took a first bite from the sandwich.

The corned beef was woefully undercooked, and hard, white fat was visible throughout the slices. The meat was tough and pulled from between the bread. I wasn't happy, and used my heartbreak to fuel a search for Dallas' best Reuben elsewhere.

A week ago I returned to NHS. It had been six months, and I was ready to give the sandwich a second shot. Turns out that first mishap was likely a fluke.

This time the meat was tender and plentifully layered between double-stacked rye bread. The Russian dressing was used aggressively, and the kraut had a solid tang. It was paired up with some of Dallas' best shoe-string fries.

I'm still waiting on Bolsa to get its Reuben put together -- right now they're selling a pastrami sandwich with braised cabbage that's something else entirely -- but for now I think it's safe to say Dallas' best hand-crafted Reuben is served at this Henderson Avenue tavern.

Now I just have to get past the $16 price tag.

KEEP THE DALLAS OBSERVER FREE... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we'd like to keep it that way. With local media under siege, it's more important than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" program, allowing us to keep offering readers access to our incisive coverage of local news, food and culture with no paywalls.
Scott Reitz
Contact: Scott Reitz