Nonna: Open For Lunch On Fridays and Roasting Some Really Good Pork

Nonna's been serving stellar Italian since 2007, earning accolades from every critic that crosses the restaurant's threshold. Lunch service is, however, a somewhat more quiet affair, only available on Friday from 11 to 2. I stopped in to see if chef Julian Barsotti's daylight offerings matched up to the gushing reviews I've read about his dinner service.

The menu is pared down for lunch, and a little expensive for everyday eating, but accessible if you're used to Nonna's prices. The famous lobster-laden parcels of pasta are available ($12, $22 dinner), as are many of the evening dinner-menu items. Sandwiches, however, are only available at lunch.

Roast Pork ($12), a sandwich topped with brocolinni and aged provolone, is hardly a new concept. Though Philadelphia is much more known for its cheesesteak, many shops sell a version of this sandwich, touting tender slices of roasted porcine pleasure that sit in a porky broth. Nonna's sandwich stays true to those flavors, though I'm not a fan of the chicken stock that made its way into their au jus.

They also use a house-cooked ciabatta. The soft roll shares nothing with Philly's hard, sturdy, sesame studded breads, but that's OK. The fresh, soft and delicious roll makes for a compelling sandwich that begs to be followed by an afternoon nap.

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