They're approaching mythical status these days, featured recently on the Food Network's Sugar High and in every third dessert-related conversation that takes place in the city. But if, like I was, you're writing off Tillman's Roadhouse's Tableside S'mores as over-hyped gimmickry, you and your appetite are making a tactical error.

I ate there last night and gave in. Each ingredient -- graham cracker, chocolate, marshmallow, in case you lived a severely deprived childhood -- is surprisingly fresher, lighter and more vibrant than any you've tasted, owing the kitchen's patient creation of each in-house. And the three subtle flavor tweaks they've made to the marshmallows -- maple, coffee and orange -- give each mini-sugar-sandwich an extra punch. And of course, they come equipped with their own mini fire pit, at which you can roast your marshmallows as delicately golden brown or as carcinogen-baked black as your arteries desire.

What else do you need, besides a table-side cot?

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