There are polarizing things in this lovely Southern city of ours — politics, religion, money, statues — but the thing we've found to be the most polarizing? Truffle. Some people eat so much truffle popcorn, they get a stomach ache, while others can't stand being at the same table as an order of black truffle mashed potatoes. At Pappas Bros., there's one truffle item on the menu, and it's a cocktail.

The Black Truffle Martini on the Pappas Bros. cocktail menu (which changes semiannually) elegantly puts the divisive mushroom to good use by infusing vermouth with just the right bit of it. Beyond that, Pappas Bros. keeps it simple; no one needs more than one wild card in a cocktail.

Black Truffle Martini ($20): Belvedere Intense Vodka, black truffle-infused dolin dry vermouth, pecorino-stuffed olives

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Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, 10477 Lombardy Lane

• Drinking