First Look

Peasant Pizzeria, Now Open on Cedar Springs, Stands Out From Standard Dallas Pizza Joints

Peasant Pizzeria's Artichoke NYC ($16) is a white pizza rich with ricotta, fontina, mozzarella, charred artichoke, spinach and blistered garlic.
Peasant Pizzeria's Artichoke NYC ($16) is a white pizza rich with ricotta, fontina, mozzarella, charred artichoke, spinach and blistered garlic. Paige Weaver
Peasant Pizzeria sits on the corner of Cedar Springs and Reagan, in a space most recently occupied by the short-lived Q Tacos at Macho's Cantina. Inspired by L.A.’s Pizzeria Mozza, owner Robert Colombo spent two years developing the concept. The menu offers a variety of classic Italian dishes, but at Peasant, the focus is pizza.

“The difference is in the dough,” says Colombo, formerly of Uptown’s beloved Sfuzzi. “Most pizza dough is put together and served in the same day."

Peasant’s dough is fermented over a two-day period with organic, unbleached bread flour, dark rye flour, wheat germ and wildflower honey. The result is a crispy, golden-brown crust that’s fluffy and airy on the inside.

“We cook it longer — for five to six minutes — versus a Neapolitan pizza, which cooks for 90-120 seconds," Colombo says. "It’s a significantly lighter dough than a typical pizza dough. It has a sweet-sourness to it. I compare it to a toasted bagel.”

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Peasant Pizzeria is on the corner of Cedar Springs and Reagan.
courtesy Steven Diamond
There are 16 pizzas on the menu, including the Artichoke NYC ($16), a white pizza rich with ricotta, fontina, mozzarella, charred artichoke, spinach and blistered garlic. Another white cheese pizza, the Peasant ($16) is topped with housemade fennel sausage, red onions, scallions, mozzarella and panna alfredo that is brushed onto the pie. If you’re looking for a spicy twist on a traditional pepperoni pizza, try the East Coast Hot Oil pizza ($15). Housemade red pepper chili oil is glazed onto the dough before cooking, infusing the whole pie with spice.

There is more to the menu than pizza, however. Try the traditional Meatballs al Forno ($10) with classic marina sauce or the Meatballs Albonidgas ($13), a Spanish take on this Italian classic, served with garlicky mushroom and a light, herby white wine tomato sauce. Both dishes arrive with crusty sage-butter garlic bread.

You'll also find salads — such as Rozie’s Chopped Salad ($13) — massive enough to share and ample pasta dishes, such as a vegetarian fusilli ($13). Mains run the gamut from chicken thighs ($18) to grilled branzino ($26) and bone-in Chicken Paillard ($22).

Brunch service starts Saturday and will include a variety of breakfast pizzas, egg dishes, and breakfast favorites such ricotta lemon zest pancakes. If you were a fan of Sfuzzi’s famous peach bellinis, you’ll be pleased to know you can find them once again at Peasant.

The inside of the restaurant is warm and inviting, with exposed brick walls and a rustic wood-paneled bar. The space opens to the sidewalk, making it an appealing place to stop and enjoy a drink and a meal while people-watching.

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Meatballs al Forno ($10) is served with classic marina sauce.
Paige Weaver
“We see a lot of people walking around here, which is unusual for Dallas and very nice because it really provides a neighborhood feel to Peasant,” Colombo says.

The restaurant's name is "meant to be a juxtaposition,” Colombo says. “A lot of the recipes are homegrown, handed down from my family for generations. We wanted the food to be approachable but hoped it would be so outstanding that people would laugh and say, ‘Well, that’s really not peasant food.’ It’s a little play on words.”

Peasant Pizzeria, 3900 Cedar Springs Road. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.
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Paige Weaver
Contact: Paige Weaver