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Rex's Friday Lobster Rolls: They're Good, and They're Way Cheaper Than a Plane Ticket

Rex's Seafood Market was running wide-open, full-throttle on a recent Friday afternoon. Lent and the army of Catholics who adhere to its dietary restrictions might have had something to do with the surge, but I think it was the lobster roll that inspired the droves.

Rex's puts the New England delicacy on the menu every Friday, and while the seafood is the processed, frozen type (bright red meat from the arms of the beast), the kitchen isn't stingy in its bun-stuffing. Dressed with so little mayo I could barely find it, the meat is studded with a little finely chopped red onion and a little parsley -- that's it.

There was a line at the door and a brief wait at 12:30 p.m., and the tables were packed in tight. Note: If you're here to shop for seafood to take home, it can be a little hard to peruse when the store is this jammed. I wanted to check out some salmon, but it was impossible to do without sticking my ass into someone's lunch.

Crushing crowds and the inevitable service snafus that accompany them aside, Rex's put on a good lunch. A large blackboard barked out the menu in colorful chalk. There were some specials, too: oysters from up north, most running $25 or so a dozen. Expensive for casual seafood, but they're really nice shells.

A grouper BLT was less of a stunner. The fish was fresh and the bacon was fine but the sandwich never really came together. It needed a lemony or herbal mayo or perhaps a spicy remoulade. No matter. You came for the lobster roll before you stayed for the oysters, anyway. The sandwich set you back $18 but you don't care. You're 1800 miles from Boston and plane tickets are steep. You might even order two next time.

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