Just beyond a miniature herb garden in the Inwood Village, under a stretch of royal blue awning, you’ll find an ornate, heavy wooden door. Open it and reveal an ethereal world of twinkling, skyward-stretching branches. It is in this magical space where the most amazingly fluffy soufflés imaginable are brought to life. Year-round, Rise No. 1 woos us with these airy delights. Yet, with the arrival of fall, an exceptional creation alights: the pumpkin soufflé.
Fragrant with spices, the sweet soufflé is delivered piping hot. Just as it takes patience to make the perfect soufflé, a good deal of self-control is required to eat one. As you allow it to cool before sending a spoonful to your mouth, inhale the gorgeous aroma of nutmeg. Good things come to those who wait, and what a good thing it is. Creamy beneath a bit of sugary crunch around the edges, it almost floats out of its ramekin. Both pumpkin and sweetness are played subtly, but the accompanying condiments (crème Anglaise and whipped cream) can be added to lovely effect as well.
At year's end, this seasonal flavor will vanish. Now is the time to savor every mouthful, whether you choose a seat in the romantic, dimly lit dining room or the covered patio that lets in just enough of the glorious fall weather. On your way out, drop by the hostess stand to draw a quote to carry home with you, such as this one: “Loving is half of believing.” Oh, there’s no doubt about it. We love. We love and we believe.
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