If you need an indication that Rosemont, the subject of this week's review is still finding its footing, just look at the plain, gray facade. There's no sign indicating the small, stand-alone building houses a restaurant. The only reason people know Tracy Miller's latest is open for business is word of mouth or a handful of news stories on local blogs.
The inside of the dining room looks minimalist, and while to some degree it is, it's actually unfinished. The booths and bar seating are installed, and some of the art is up, but there are a few more pieces to come. Shelves will eventually line the back wall, according to a waitress I talked with, and a sign bearing the restaurant's name will be installed out front. For now, Rosemont is still a work in progress.
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I visited the restaurant a number of times and always observed errors in execution and a slow kitchen. Salt has been abused and omelets have arrived overcooked. Soup has been tepid and garnishes forgotten.
So why go? Try the frozen yogurt with granola and fresh fruit. It's one of the nicest breakfast dishes I have ever consumed. The yogurt is impossibly tangy and the granola added a nice sweet crunch. The fruit was passable, but I still swooned. It's a compelling dish that tastes like dessert for breakfast. The fish sandwich, brisket sandwich and doughnuts are impressive, too.
I think, at some point soon, Rosemont will iron out the creases and become one of the most compelling places in Dallas to get breakfast (and maybe lunch).
It's not there yet, though.