4

Samar

Samar Makes Esquire's Cut,
But Is Dallas Not As Trendy as it Thinks?

The accompanying text for

Esquire

's much-hyped

list of best new restaurants

is finally online, which means eaters can now follow author John Mariani's logic for anointing

Samar

a top 10 stand-out (He was apparently smitten with the patio, hookah selection and "women in painted-on blue jeans who proved just about everything George Strait ever sang about Texas women.")

But the feature also includes a list of "trends we'd like to call a thousand-year ban on." For the targeted offenses to qualify as trends, I'm assuming a fair number of restaurants are perpetuating them. Yet I'm hard-pressed to come up with Dallas examples of at least a quarter of the practices cited.

Then again, I'm still relatively new to town. So I ask you: Where can I go if I want to be annoyed by the following trends?

  • Showing off today's bounty of local vegetables as if it's dessert on a dessert cart
  • Maple powder
  • iPad wine lists (I know the wine list at Charlie Palmer at The Joule is digitized, but I'm pretty sure the restaurant doesn't use honest-to-goodness iPads.)
  • Water sommeliers
  • Being forced to "know the farmer"
  • The term market on the menu (Please tell me I'm just not thinking hard enough here.)
  • "This morning's egg"

There is some evidence on the trend list that Dallas isn't entirely out-of-step with the national restaurant scene: Thanks to Wolfgang Puck, we do have a restaurant with a "name that includes numbers" and "miso cod." And surely the number of mussels sold nightly in Dallas County proves restaurants here have mastered the "faux bistro aesthetic." I only wish some of those eateries would force me to know the farmer.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.

Newsletters

All-access pass to the top stories, events and offers around town.

  • Top Stories
    Send:

Newsletters

All-access pass to top stories, events and offers around town.

Sign Up >

No Thanks!

Remind Me Later >