5290 Belt Line
Damn this place is quiet inside.
Not empty, just quiet--the soundtrack cranked down to a level only barely audible. The near-silence is so stark, you quickly become self-conscious. Anything you say above a whisper is fodder for other tables.
We eventually saw opportunity in this and began mumbling false trade secrets, along the lines of "I can't believe they're canceling Windows 7--did you dump your stock in time?" Then we progres...no, that's not right. Then we regressed to more playground-ish antics: "so what's really wrong with puppy mills," "I've seen Glenn Beck's teabags and they're tiny" and "Have you read L. Ron Hubbard?"
Think we ruined several guests' dinners that night--which, in retrospect, was probably the wrong thing to do, considering the restaurant's impressive longevity.
Addison Cafe has been around for 20-some years. The place has seen leg warmers, slackers and SUVs. Service is polished in an old-school sense, the room staid and the presentation of French classics unfailing, if also unspectacular.
The menu escargot, confit and steak au poivre. Their Duck l'orange arranges tender meat with the traditional bigarade sauce--although it turns out more sweet than bitter. There is, however, a comforting gamey undertone. The house pate is pure and simple, featuring a gritty, home-style texture and pleasant, uncomplicated character. But an entree portion of sole was noticeably overcooked on one visit.
Still, it's hard to fault a place like this, even if you don't feel comfortable talking. Addison Cafe feels self-assured, but in a strange way--as if time and crowds passed them by long ago, only they don't really care.
Addison Cafe continues to cook French classics without fuss or modern flair. And the strategy works well.
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.