Short Orders: Angelo & Vito's

Angelo & Vito's
4520 Frankford

The reason places like Little Caesar's and Domino's thrive is a commitment to 'just good enough' style pizza.

Such operations can easily bake a pale yet tolerable crust, spread on some simplistic sauce and let the toppings take care of the rest. After two pizzas at Angelo & Vito's recently, I get the feeling this popular North Dallas spot is beginning to settle in, as well.

Nothing particularly wrong with either pizza, mind you--just that both crusts fell into the yeasty, glutenous, slightly under baked category, as if run by timer rather than any particular "feel." Instead of a balance of herbs and tomato, the sauce smacks your palate with one sappy, sweet-tangy note. And, since I'm quibbling, their sausage is dull and gray...not the sort of thing you want to see on a pie.

On the plus side, their cooks know how to space out the ingredients--an important and often overlooked feat, for a little tactical finesse in the assembly makes certain no one ingredient dominates a slice...Unless you order their version of a meat lovers pizza, in which case shards of protein mound up haphazardly. The nature of the beast, I guess.

At least use decent stuff, except for the gray bits.

Yes, they bring out pizzas markedly superior to those produced by the aforementioned chains. But they're of the same genre. In other words, you get the feeling Angelo & Vito's could do much better if they didn't already have a loyal following--if they had to work for it, once again.

Last fall we gave them a 77 for their delivery efforts. In house, they also score a solid C...which amounts to a A in some school districts these days.

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