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Short Orders: Go Go Burger

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Go Go Burger
6129 Main St., Frisco
214-472-2715

Cute, the place is cute. So much so that it has a teenage girl atmosphere about it.

In fact, five suburban kids sat gossiping behind me last time out. And I must say, teenage life in Frisco is really, really scandalous. Their hushed innuendos repeatedly burst into group cackles that would drown out a Fox News "debate."

The place is cute enough to stock Twinkies, Zingers, Sno-Balls and other adolescent favorites in storage jars. Oh, it's cute. They tack words such as "Twinkie," "Oreo" and "frosting" to their shakes--good God, they frappe Hostess cakes into ice cream--then cover the whipped topping in a rainbow of sprinkles. And, damn it, the vanilla shake indeed has frosting mixed in.

Well, mostly caked to the bottom, but the experience is just as disturbing.

The burgers themselves--it's a burger joint, right?--are thin and capably constructed. They compare to any competent sandwich... except they tend to pursue cooking until the patties are well done, slick with grease but not juicy. Also, on my most recent pass though the "in" and "out" doors, the supporting bun began to melt into gooey slop. Just how long did this sit before they called "number 77"? Perhaps they called my order several times, only to be masked out by teenage squeals. Whatever, the experience is beyond disturbing.

Give them credit, though--there's an efficient operation behind that cute facade. The fries look hand cut and show some deft salting, despite the hastily-prepared mouth feel. They package everything for easy on-the-go dining. And even when the tiny space is crammed beyond capacity, burgers come out quickly.

But if your constitution can't abide kids and you're too old for sprinkles, just pass on by.

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