Short Orders: Kenny's Burger Joint

Kenny's Burger Joint
1377 Legacy Dr. (Stonebriar Commons)

One thing about Kenny's really, truly irked me.

Years ago, chef Kenny Bowers served batch after batch of fantastic French fries at his Addison restaurant. Blanched and finished in beef tallow, they were crisp, rich and reminiscent in flavor of McDonald's fries from the 60's and 70s--the era before they were forced to appease those who shun red meat.

Now, this was at Kenny's Wood Fired Grill, a "Chicago-style New England seafood place. So you'd think--given the iconic status of burgers and fries in American culture--he'd put the same effort into the ones served here.

But that's not the case.

As if to make up for the disappointingly common fries, Kenny's burgers are thick, fatty and grilled to the rare side of however you answer the "how do you want it cooked" question.

I mean, these are nice burgers: so juicy they drip, draped in sweet-acrid wafts of smoke, seasoned to balance the brighter flavors from burning wood and the husky taste of meat, presented with lettuce leaves that snap and enough onion to destroy any first date opportunities...unless your first date also orders a burger.

Yes, there's a pat appearance to the burgers. They seem too shapely to really be hand made, too smarmy in their ciabatta-like bun. But they easily satisfy a craving.

Below average fries, solidly above average burgers (and shakes). So the final result tilts well in Kenny's favor.

Besides, you gotta love a suburban joint that quotes Bluto Blutarsky and Dean Vernon Wormer on large placards lining the restaurant...if you're a guy, anyway.

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