Short Orders: The Mansion's Lunch Menu

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So they lost chef what's-his-name, big deal.

An army of line cooks and talented sous chef types continue to do the same work--perhaps even better, now that there's more balance in the kitchen.

Not too long ago, the famed restaurant issued a new three-course lunch for 29 bucks. That's in honor of their 29th anniversary; not certain what gift is appropriate for number 29, but I know the 30th is the Rogaine anniversary. I also know $29 brings the Mansion more in line with my spending abilities, so...

As I said, it's the same restaurant. The pace is relaxed and details almost laughably impressive. Butter, for instance, comes out on a slab of polished pink stone--or perhaps glass; didn't examine it closely--rather than, say, fine bone china. The view overlooking that cool patio down the expanse of green toward Turtle Creek is...hey, did that car just pick up a prostitute? I think so.


Their tasting menu this month emphasizes phrases like cool and light: cold pea soup, ahi tuna, ice cream and such. Only the pea soup really disappoints, assuming a character not unlike lliquid candy, the appearance of green sludge and (in its favor) continuous bursts of fresh vegetables. Give this to kids and you will curtail their interest in sweets as well as peas.

Oh, I'm probably being harsh, for there's an obvious attempt to reign in the fresh, sappy taste. The sugar peas are just too, too instense.

Slices of ahi tuna, on the other hand, are extraordinarily delicate and flavorful--quite a departure from the bland "just defrosted" tinny taste you so often find when you order this fish at other restaurants. Instead of obscuring the ahi with a ponzu, they fit it on a mellow puree and rely on basic seasoning, allowing the fish to stand out.

There are other options, but I only visited once. They've also added a three course dinner menu for $49. Not sure about that number's significance.

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