Short Orders: Who's Who Burgers

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Who's Who Burgers
69 Highland Park Village

I'm almost certain Laura Bush walked by as I readied to try my first Who's Who burger in about five years. I say "almost," because if it really were the former first lady and only cognizant person in the White House, federal agents would have torn me apart like a pack of NASCAR fans on someone drinking imported beer while praising open-wheel road racing.

Besides, it would be difficult to imagine older wealthy women in their everyday finest walking into this place. Who's Who, after all, seems a little more grease splattered, a bit less appealing than when it first opened in the heart of Highland Park.

It was buzzworthy at the time: the allure of Kobe burgers, back when such apparent luxuries were new and exciting; a big name restaurateur--Phil Romano--lending credence; those rich shakes...

But maybe all this was just fancy. For the burgers, while cooked to order and juicy, are rather demure, as well. If you overload them with onions, ketchup and other condiments, they will disappear into the background, a mere texture--even when prepared medium-rare. Despite the Wagyu-Angus lineage, it's just another mundane patty of ground beef. They roll fries in rice flour, a trick to achieve much needed color. And the shakes...

You know, when the place opened, they were rich and thick, ice cream blended into a measure of half and half, or so it seemed. But now the shakes taste like a few scoops of modest ice cream--that's all.

There's nothing special about this place other than location...and the probability that rich people who haunt the shopping strip will pass in close proximity. And if that was really Laura Bush, the fact that she didn't even glance my way means she has better taste in men than I give her credit for.

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