Tacos

Taco-Flavored Doritos Are Insulting

I had wanted to write a review of the limited-edition taco-flavored Doritos when Frito-Lay released them for the Super Bowl. Alas, I wasn't quick enough and missed out on the special. Or so I thought until my wife came home with a bag of the stuff. Splashed across the top left corner are the words, "It's Back," but in modernized packaging as part of the permanent line. Not the retro design -- sombrero included -- of the bags available earlier this year.

They tasted of the stale hard-shell tortillas found in the "Hispanic" or "Mexican" aisle of the local mega mart, enhanced only by a dusty covering that is redolent of border desert sand. A slight salsa taste and tang at the back of the mouth.

I had wanted to love them, wanted to take a pleasant trip down memory lane to when as a skate-rat teen I would rip open a bag of Doritos, fill my 32-ounce red Carl's Jr. cup with Cherry Coke and play Nintendo after a session of skating with my crew. Try as I might, after eating the whole bag, the taco-flavored Doritos were still a terrible product, insulting to the idea of the taco.

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José Ralat Maldonado