I had wanted to write a review of the limited-edition taco-flavored Doritos when Frito-Lay released them for the Super Bowl. Alas, I wasn't quick enough and missed out on the special. Or so I thought until my wife came home with a bag of the stuff. Splashed across the top left corner are the words, "It's Back," but in modernized packaging as part of the permanent line. Not the retro design -- sombrero included -- of the bags available earlier this year.
They tasted of the stale hard-shell tortillas found in the "Hispanic" or "Mexican" aisle of the local mega mart, enhanced only by a dusty covering that is redolent of border desert sand. A slight salsa taste and tang at the back of the mouth.
I had wanted to love them, wanted to take a pleasant trip down memory lane to when as a skate-rat teen I would rip open a bag of Doritos, fill my 32-ounce red Carl's Jr. cup with Cherry Coke and play Nintendo after a session of skating with my crew. Try as I might, after eating the whole bag, the taco-flavored Doritos were still a terrible product, insulting to the idea of the taco.
Follow City of Ate on Twitter: @cityofate.com
Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.