Eat This

Taqueria Y Carniceria Guanajuato Is a Mouthful -- of Pig

When I interviewed Alberto Neri for my review of La Banqueta, I pressed the popular taquero for his meat source, which he eventually divulged. Halfway through my second interview he slipped me a business card. Taqueria Y Carniceria Guanajuato, it said. There was a picture of a cow on the front and back, a phone number an address and nothing else. I went to visit the place the next day.

See also: This Week's Review: Taqueria Y Carniceria Guanajuato

The first time I dropped in I ordered a flauta that put other versions of the crunchy snack I've tried to shame. It was impossibly light and not at all greasy. The rest of the tacos I tried were passable, but not impressive. They're the standard steam-table versions of barbacoa, chorizo, pastor and others you've had at countless other taquerias around Dallas.

Then I came back on a Saturday.

You don't even have to walk through the front door to know something different is going on here on the weekends. As soon as you open your car door it hits you: pork. And then you walk inside and it hits you even harder: more pork. There's carnitas and chicharron and other pig bits cooked in lard.

The flavors are very simple, but the meat is cooked well. It's moist and soft on the palate with the crisp and crunchy edges that mark good carnitas. There's a delicious menudo available on Saturdays as well. If you were ever lucky enough to step into this place with a hangover, it would be like passing through the gates of heaven.

The tripe stew is gone on Sundays, but the pork remains. Either way this shop should be a part of your weekend plans.

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Scott Reitz
Contact: Scott Reitz