The addition of Jerry's Wood-Fired Dogs to the shopping center on Gaston Avenue, just north of Paulus Avenue, has me considering a petition the strip be officially called Junk Food Row. The hot dog restaurant joins Papa John's and the Philly Connection, and while the Cock and Bull may have a hummus on the menu, it's not exactly known for serving health food.
Jerry's descends upon Dallas by way of Santa Ana, California. Built on the premise of high-quality links cooked over burning mesquite, the small chain has six other locations in California. Ours makes number seven, according to their website.
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I suppose if you're a freak for hot dogs, you'll probably enjoy a lunch here. The links are better-than-Oscar-Meyer, with a natural casing, but they lack that snappy vibrancy of a really great hot dog. They're a little dry too.
My other issue is the bun on this Chicago dog version. The poppy seeds are great, and they sprinkle your paper-lined basket with a rustling, sandy sound when you pick it up. The bread itself though, is doughy and lacks structure. I was only a quarter of the way through my hot dog when the whole bottom blew out under the weight of all the toppings. As my hot dog laid on the poppy-seed flecked paper, naked and defenseless, the scene in The Money Pit where Tom Hank's bathtub falls through the floor jumped into my head. I'm not sure why.
Anyway back to the Chicago hot dog. Yeah, it's fine. But don't make a special trip.