As you drive south on White Chapel Boulevard in Southlake, past the Methodist church that gives the road its name, you'll pass by exquisite looking houses situated on impossibly large expanses of lush green lawns. The home of some of the area's most expensive residential real estate seems like an odd place for a barbecue joint, but The Feedstore BBQ seems to be doing just fine tucked among its affluent neighbors.
On my recent visit to The Feedstore on a warm spring day for lunch, the parking lot was nearly full, threatening a long wait, or worse, a place that runs out of meat. Luckily, the line to order food wasn't obscenely long and moved quickly. The restaurant had plenty of room to sit, either in the main dining room or in a large room on the back of the restaurant with expansive glass windows and long picnic tables.
In line, you order your meats from a counterman, who will hand you a plate with your selections. You slide down the line and help yourself to the sides. The people in front of me ordered brisket that looked pretty lean and dry, and my apprehension returned.
When the man asked what I wanted, I asked if he had any moist brisket. It was almost like a secret club; he turned to another guy, who in turn said something to someone else, then the third guy disappeared around the corner, only to quickly return with a wrapped section of moist brisket. Counterman unveiled a lovely dark crusted chunk of meat, and sliced off a portion for me. Skies parted, angels sang, and all was right with the world, if only for a little while.
And by a little while, I mean the times when fatty brisket is in my mouth. The Feedstore's brisket is quite good; smoky, but not too smoky, salty, but not too salty, fat perfectly rendered into melt-in-your-mouth goodness.
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Less impressive were the sausage or ribs. The ribs were the better of the pork choices but could have more smoky flavor. The sausage seemed kind of generic and limp. It was rescued by either of the two versions of barbecue sauce offered; an original Texas style with some tang and a spicier version that wasn't much hotter, but still tasty.
The thick, extra creamy macaroni and cheese was pleasing in as much as it tasted better than Kraft. The fried okra was cooked to order instead of being left to get soggy in a chafing dish. The cole slaw was memorable only for its inoffensiveness.
I never thought a neighborhood of 1-percenters with their fancy custom homes would tolerate a good barbecue joint literally in their backyard. But The Feedstore is the kind of neighbor everyone would appreciate, no matter your income bracket.
The Feedstore BBQ 530 S. White Chapel Blvd. Southlake 817-488-1415 www.feedstorebbq.com 11-8:30 M-Thur, 11-9 F-Sat, 11-8 Sun