First Look

THE GREEK Opens in One Arts Plaza with a New Chef, New Tricks

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Just a few architectural details (and the all-capital lettering style) of the former COMMISSARY spot remain in THE GREEK's new digs. Tall, tall ceilings and a rippling white-textured wall studded with chalkboards for specials round out the earthy, simple feel to the space. And it's more open now, with the removal of part of the long bar that ran along the kitchen-facing side of the restaurant. Just one massive marble-topped bar remains, for now, without a license to sell liquor. Never you mind, cocktail-lovers, one is on the way. Speaking of which, I checked out shaker-king Jason Cosmas' cocktail menu, which includes Greekified concoctions like the Olympic Cup (Metaxa 5 Star, Cointreau, lime, cucumber, mint and ginger beer), The Onasis (Champagne and St. Germain topped with candied kumquats), and Greek Sangria (Mosofilero white wine, lemon, St. Germain and melon). Opa indeed.

The Greek people aren't known for being quiet, and I'm thinking the more subtle decor at THE GREEK is meant to let the flavors in the dishes speak for themselves. Chef Tesar's lamb burger may be long gone, but there's plenty of lamb on a menu that dresses up classic Greek flavors in tapas-style portions.

The menu begins with a selection of pitas, all priced between $7 and $10. They arrive to the table unfolded, presenting their interior goodness to all before being wrapped up and eaten in the traditional gyro fashion.

At my table, we tried the traditional lamb gyro and the "Steak & Shrooms" which had crispy leek strands, horseradish aioli and cheese along with meaty wild mushrooms and sliced beef. Salads are similarly priced, featuring a Greek-style wedge as well as others topped with either chicken or salmon.

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