You're probably not headed to Oak Cliff's new wharf-style seafood eatery for the burger, but you could. You could do it. When your friends order crab cakes or the shrimp and bacon mac and cheese, you could shout "actually, I'm getting the burger," and hand the large menu to the waiter without meeting the waiter's eyes, like you're MI6 cool. You would be fine because the cheeseburger at Pier 247 is a lone wolf of cool.
There's something deeply satisfying about ordering a smoky cheeseburger at a place that does beach seafood. Maybe it comes from the askew tumbles of cool air carrying the fresh ocean shellfish smell with the burger* (*imagined). It also could be from the cheeseburger. Really, there are no places where good cheeseburgers aren't. You're never far from one anymore: They've been dressed up, dressed down, and re-imagined. Good cheeseburgers are found at docks, forests, dams, pet hotels, Canada, Ohio, ski lifts, rocks that look like Presidents, hay bales, wine caves, middle of oceans, and Oak Cliffs.
Pier 247 is going for the "classic bacon cheeseburger" for $10.95. It comes with American cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato, concentrics of red onion, Creole-spiked mayo on a puffy brioche bun.
Can we talk about the trend of using American cheese? I was ambivalent until I tried the Knife burger. Now, I'd prefer those insanely yellow squares melted on everything that the server brings out. Excuse me, can you melt a slice of American over my water glass?
American cheese made this version at Pier 247 taste more like it did when you were a kid, slapping down those plastic-wrapped slices in between bread. The brioche bun worked, too. Brioche is often too rich or too small for the burger. This one held onto the meat, and was as puffy as a buttered cumulus. Also, the bacon added a stiff breeze of smoke to cut through everything else. The meat (TX raised, says the menu) was well-seasoned and juicy enough that it didn't matter that they broke the pious burger oath: I will bear true medium rare meat cooking, not medium well, when called upon.
Also, a good burger makes you forget about the fries, but don't forget about these. With a shower of malt vinegar, they had just the right deep, potatoy-crunch.
You're never far from a great burger in Dallas. Drop a pin in the map, and you're likely a stone's throw from a good one. Just don't ignore the burger at the non-burger place. Non-burger joint burgers never did anything to you. Be the rebel you were born to be, and don't go for the shrimp cocktail. Definitely do it if you're at Pier 247.
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