In January we all learned that former Top Chef contestant, Tiffany Derry, excused herself from the cooking duties at Private | Social. It appears the restaurant owners used Derry's departure as an opportunity for a bit of reinvention. This trendy spot on McKinney Avenue has tweaked its name, hired a new chef and completely revamped the menu.
First, the new name/logo. It's just "P|S" now. And anytime anyone makes us use a weird keystroke, we get all cranky. Wah. Pick a letter or a functional symbol, but not just a thing to be a thing. Prince killed that whole idea.
The new chef at P|S is Najat Kaanache, who has a rather interesting background: Kaanache is of Moroccan descent and was raised in the Basque region of Spain. Her first career was as a leading actress on Spanish television. Then she attended culinary school and went on to travel the world for a couple years, earning the moniker The Pilgrim Chef.
Kaanache has worked at Alinea in Chicago, French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York. Most notably, Kaanache spent two years at el Bulli in Spain. Now, she's landed at P|S on McKinney.
The menu at P|S is filed under "Repast" instead of "menu" on the website. (You're welcome.) And it reads like a book outline. Part 1 is the "Dedication" with mini-doughnuts served with a curried agave barbecue dip or candy fried chicken lollipops.
Part two is the "Preface" of Shared Arts or Crafts, which includes an "edible Dalí, truffled phyllo canvas."
Then, we get to the "Body" of the work, and diners chose from either H20 or Flesh, which includes a total of three mains: sweet-seared scallops with caramelized garden veggies ($30); "cowcoal" farmer's chicken, tender baby onions ($24); and briquette smoked rib eye, russet fries and petite carrots ($42).
Yes, there's an epilogue, which includes a rhubarb compote, foraged fruit and homemade Nutella.
P|S is open serving edible art 5-10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 5-11 p.m.Thursday and Saturday.
