Each week, Justin Bitner goes hunting for DFW's most interesting sandwiches. Have a sandwich suggestion? Leave it in the comments and he'll check it out.
Venue: Coppell Deli
The Sandwich: The Reuben ($6.29)
Bread: Ever so delicately toasted Rye
Toppings: Corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, Russian dressing
The Case: Nestled between a neighborhood of million dollar homes and a string of manufacturing compounds, Coppell Deli exists in a tiny half-block of throwback Americana. A few humble shops in an otherwise deserted strip of land bring to mind those 65-25-65 speed trap towns in West Texas. Upon entering the deli, a hypnotizing waft of sizzling meat and deep-fried starches triggers my innermost Pavlovian tendencies.
Located minutes from Valley Ranch, the entire place is decked out with Cowboys memorabilia and used to be a frequent hangout for the 'Boys in their 90s zenith. Faded autographed photos of the stars of those teams form dense wallpaper, while some of the memorable figures even get tributes on the menu. If you've got family in town order the Newton Extra, a behemoth ham and turkey deli sandwich with bacon and cheese, garnished with a half pound hamburger patty.
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Wanting to avoid having to mainline Lipitor, I opted for the standard Reuben. Waiting for the classic meat and cabbage tome, thoughts of my gridiron idols had me longing for the days of over-.500 football. I hustled to the counter when my number was called, cradling the sandwich and, if I remember correctly, issuing a vicious stiff arm to an elderly woman on the way to my seat.
The sandwich came wrapped and taped tighter than Tony Romo's ribcage, making it only momentarily difficult to tear through to get to the goods. Dueling layers of corned beef and sauerkraut fought it out on the lightly toasted rye bread, with the Russian dressing mostly hanging in the background. The corned beef was the real standout in this sandwich, bringing its trademark saltiness to easily outshine the piquant kraut. While not piled high to the tune of some delis' versions, the Reuben was the perfect size for a person who mainly plays sports preceded with the word "Fantasy."
The Verdict: Worth the trip for a nostalgic lunch. The 1990s are alive and well at the Coppell Deli, both in the décor and the calorie count of the menu items.
More 'Wich Trials: The Italian Hoagie at Fred's Downtown Philly