Top 10 Chefs Who Deserve More Attention

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9. Bartolino Cocuzza, Amici Signature Italian
Yeah, it's in Carrollton, so nobody goes...except his regulars. That he's hung on for so long (since the early '90s) in a hidden location says a lot about the chef and his cooking. Cocuzza opened his first restaurant at the age of 17--his parents helped--and then worked the stoves in some iconic destinations: Baby Routh and Cacharel, for example. He's so quiet, if the place shut down, how would anybody know?

8. Norma and Jose Vasconcelos, Soley!
You get the feeling this French-Mexican restaurant could shut down any day. Yet the husband-wife team (which, technically, makes this a list of 11) prepare some brilliant fusion dishes, including one of the city's better versions of escargot. Originally from Mexico, both chefs trained in Paris and worked in Michelin star restaurants in Lyon before returning to this side of the Atlantic.

7. Travis Henderson, The Place at Perry's
Still can't get used to Perry's new name. Oh, they got some publicity when forced to change the restaurant's identity, but that's about it. The place retains its sophistication, but chef-owner Henderson is the sort of person who doesn't mind downshifting to, oh, chicken fried steak or big ol' Texas onion rings.

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Dave Faries
Contact: Dave Faries