(Un)sound Bites: Vitto Italian, An Offer You Can Refuse

Look to our regular feature (Un)sound Bites for rants, and possibly even raves, on dining in Dallas.

Our server forgot to bring out our appetizer, saving us a few bucks and mercifully shaving a few minutes from our stay--pretty much the only positives from an experience at Vitto Italian.

My wife, kids and I recently tried the Bishop Arts-area eatery because a) it’s an Italian joint and b) I learned it offered complimentary wine in lieu of obtaining a liquor license.

Fine, I admit it-you should probably switch a and b.

We ordered soft drinks for the kids and asked about the wine. Turns out they offer two options: red and white. Both of us requested water and the red stuff, but the server returned with only soft drinks and water, perhaps hoping for some sort of divine transformation. Only two reminders later, he finally brought glasses of sugary swill masquerading as wine. It was the first time in my life I've ever intentionally left an alcoholic beverage unfinished. I have had better from a juice box accidentally left to rot in a tree house for several days.

As for the rest of the evening, let’s just say any restaurant showing so little respect for wine service--even when free--couldn’t possibly be expected to take much pride in its food. Garlic rolls (unfortunately the highlight of the meal) were doughy knots soaking in an inch of oil and melted butter, crusted with enough garlic to keep Larry King alive for another decade. The sauce slathered over hospital-grade veal parmigiana smacked of Sysco. Spaghetti and meatball--the singular is intentional--featured one dull, gray Chef Boy-Ar-Dee flavored mound of beef. Made the kids happy, but their idea of fine dining is a can of Batman Spaghetti-Os.

To be fair, the place is best known for its pizza. If we ever go back, we’ll stick to what they supposedly do best. Maybe Vitto Italian should do the same --Jesse Hughey

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Jesse Hughey
Contact: Jesse Hughey