TJ's Seafood Swings for the Fences with a $17 Yacht Club Burger

The Yacht Club Burger at TJ's Seafood can be upgraded with grilled shrimp for an added five bucks.EXPAND
The Yacht Club Burger at TJ's Seafood can be upgraded with grilled shrimp for an added five bucks.
Nick Rallo

There’s a new entry to the list of Dallas’ most expensive burgers. Over at TJ’s Seafood Market, the location on Preston Royal, they’re really going for it with a new menu: the Yacht Club Burger, a $17 burger (add grilled shrimp for an extra $5) topped with bacon glazed with whiskey. 

Just as the lunch hour crests, I’m at TJ’s in Preston Royal waiting for my colossal burger. I’m regretting not wearing a captain’s cap while sitting near the bar, waiting for my boat burger. It arrives in style, supported by chips dusted with Old Bay. A knife is proudly standing through the middle of the burger. There are a few spots of meaty juice surrounding the plate, which is usually a good omen. Also a good sign: the char on the patty.

The patty is grilled Rosewood wagyu, from a local company, and it’s instantly clear that this burger has been carefully thought through. It’s the burger equivalent to the dudes at the gym who do one-handed push-ups and grunt loudly. Actually, to switch metaphors, it looks more like the Home Run Derby of burgers: Each ingredient, on its own, is a pitch right down the center of the plate. Onion jam is spread beneath the patty, a dark purple mix, richly layered on the bottom pretzel bun. There’s thin white cheddar resting on the patty, melted, Bibb lettuce and a last-of-the-summer tomato. The bacon, of course, is glazed with WhistlePig rye whiskey, and it’s crunchy and sweet.

I instantly like the rich, beefy flavor of the waygu, but it’s cooked a few notches past medium for what you’d like in a 17-buck waygu patty. The juices are, however, present on my wrist. Check. The house aioli and white cheddar are overpowered by the arm-wrestling beef flavor, which is a good thing. Beef, especially if it's waygu, should be the star. But there’s another flaw keeping the burger from transcendent greatness: sweetness.

Onion jam is sweet and smoky as you’d expect, and so is the glass-thin bacon. The pretzel roll, which you might think would provide too much salt, was on the fresher side of savory. It’s damn good, but I wouldn’t have minded a saltier cheese or a punchy mustard to cut the sweetness in half.

On their own, the ingredients are stellar. It’d be a special kind of pretentious to say that this burger isn’t good (or to say you’re not getting your money’s worth), but a few flaws keep it from pupil-dilating greatness.

The Yacht Club Burger is available at the Preston Royal TJ's Seafood location, at 6025 Royal Lane, Suite 110.

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TJ's Seafood Market

6025 Royal Lane
Dallas, TX 75230

214-691-2369

tjsseafood.com


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