Potager Café: Communal Dining, Slow Food and Small Portions.

“This is so good,” a wispy woman with a sloppy silver-white bun murmured to her dining partner at Potager Café. “I know,” the younger man nodded. “This is called Slow Food.” The Slow Food movement, which counts Potager Café’s owner and omnipresence Cynthia Chippindale among its adherents, officially combats “the…

Why Are Local Booze Slingers So Ignorant About America’s Drink?

I earned my culinary education south of the Mason-Dixon Line, so my insufferable food snobbery centers on slaw dogs and sorghum syrup. And bourbon. Especially bourbon. While I’m not a stickler for fancy, small-batch bourbon — I think Evan Williams’ Black Label is terrific — I do care more than…

Bali Ha’i: Searching for Dallas’ Elusive Tiki Dining Past

Don the Beachcomber, the Dallas restaurant whose hazy history I wrote about last week, was a relatively late arrival to the region’s Polynesian dining scene. Kevin Tucker and Dennis Haberkern, two local tiki aficionados, are busily chronicling the stories of a few DFW bars that plugged into the tiki trend…

Oh, Shut Up: We Are Not Amused
By Compliments from the Chef

I recently went to dinner with a friend whose least favorite server expression is “Are you still working on that?” He’d just wrapped up his screed about the essential wrongness of equating work with eating when a server stopped by the table and uttered the offending phrase. I thought my…

The Sausage of Texas is Upon You

Two San Antonio companies have partnered to create a distinctly Texan breakfast taco, now available at dozens of area drive-through windows. Taco Cabana last week started serving tacos made with Kiolbassa country-style sausage; the item will remain on the menu through mid-October. While DFW’s not suffering a sausage taco shortage,…

100 Favorite Dishes: Salads
At eatZi’s Market & Bakery

As a countdown to the Dallas Observer’s “Best of Dallas” 2010, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can…

Mad Men: Diners Go Crazy
Over Sweet White Sauce

Mad Men didn’t exactly blow its reputation for verisimilitude when Don Draper and his lady friend wandered into Benihana on last night’s episode, but it sure seems like one of the restaurant-goers would have mentioned the shrimp sauce. Hibachi fans have been infatuated with the uniquely American combination of mayonnaise…

Big Tex Will Go All Texas With Wines
At State Fair

Kroger has pulled out as a wine garden sponsor at the State Fair of Texas, taking its West Coast wines with it. With the Texas Department of Agriculture left as sole sponsor of the wine tasting and teaching space, all of this year’s featured wines will come from Texas. Jeff…

Six Tips for Making Restaurant Week Better

While plenty of masochistic local eateries are gearing up for a second consecutive Restaurant Week, the charitable promotion officially ended last night. And according to the comments posted here and on other local food blogs, the event was again exasperating for diners, servers and chefs. With rare exception — I…

Five Great Pasta Shapes

While supermarkets do a remarkably good job of stocking various noodle shapes, most restaurants serve a pretty narrow range of pastas. Beyond Italian restaurants that have made a specialty of pasta, noodle geometry is largely limited to macaroni, linguine and penne. That’s a shame, because there are so many great…

Serving a Dish Called Revenge

BRC, the gastropub with the naughty name that’s been a sensation in Houston this summer, failed to impress Houston Chronicle critic Alison Cook. In her review this week, Cook declined to give Big Red Cock a single star. But the restaurant’s response was pretty classy by food-and-beverage standards: In a…

Combing for Photos of Dallas’
Don the Beachcomber

Tiki history hobbyists — a remarkably serious and disciplined group, considering its members like their drinks served in coconuts — are on the hunt for photos of Dallas’ Don the Beachcomber. Open at the corner of Meadow Road and Greenville Avenue from 1974 to 1982, the Dallas outlet of the…

100 Favorite Dishes: Sliced Brisket
At Pecan Lodge

As a countdown to the Dallas Observer’s “Best of Dallas” 2010, City of Ate is serving up 100 of the favorite dishes we crave, savor and hope to scarf down again soon. These dishes are in no particular order. Some are little known, others celebrated. Some are pricey, others can…

Gefilte Fish: Tracking Heritage
Through Boiled Balls of Fish

Gefilte fish, perhaps the most maligned food on the traditional Jewish High Holiday table, encodes its maker’s ancestry as surely as hand-me-down stories and immigration papers, a local fishmonger says. Jon Alexis of TJ’s Fresh Seafood Market in Preston Forest Village claims he can almost always pinpoint where a customer’s…

Hole in the Wall Temporarily Plugged

Hole in the Wall, a proud burger dive that lived up to its name, is slated for temporary closure. According to a tweet this morning from owner Tom Ford, the 28-year old restaurant will shut its doors Monday “for a short time. New location soon! RT!” While Hole in the…

Ellerbe Fine Foods Rated Top 10 Nationwide
By Bon Appetit

Bon Appetit has selected Ellerbe Fine Foods in Fort Worth as one of its top 10 best new restaurants nationwide. Ellerbe, which opened last year on West Magnolia Avenue, has charmed critics and chefs alike with its stylish spin on traditional Southern cooking. Chef Molly McCook’s fresh, local and seasonal…

Apple Juice Not Just for Kids Anymore, Though It Should Be

Far be it from me to meddle in other people’s hydration techniques, but I was surprised this weekend to come across an overheated valet chugging a gallon of frozen apple juice. I like apples, but I always figured there was an age limit on enjoying apple juice. I’d no sooner…

Three Good Reasons to Visit Houston.
No, Really.

According to my handy Frommer’s statewide guidebook, Houston is “not usually considered a tourist destination.” Sounds like the folks doing the considering don’t let their guts lead, since — as I discovered on my first trip there this weekend — Houston is an incredibly exciting town for eaters. I’m sure…