Best New Restaurant 2021 | Roots Southern Table | Best of Dallas® 2020 | Best Restaurants, Bars, Clubs, Music and Stores in Dallas | Dallas Observer
Alison McLean

Roots was years in the making, with a backstory of heroic effort in which the restaurant went through multiple plans and menu ideas. Chef Tiffany Derry's new home was worth every minute of wait, though, as every dish here is already locked in at excellence. This isn't a cartoonish simplification of Southern food or "soul" food. The proof is in the vegetables, which are divine in all their forms: tangy spring pea salad, savory braised greens and baby turnips, buttery corn ravioli and hummus made from black-eyed peas. The gumbo might be the best this city has ever seen, and the same is doubly true for the creamed corn, which Roots could profitably sell by the gallon jug. It's busy, and it's loud, but this restaurant is also a triumph.

Best Place to Eat Before a Rangers Hall of Fame Ceremony

Javier's Gourmet Mexicano

When former third baseman and Dominican native Adrian Beltre returned to Dallas for his Rangers' Hall of Fame Ceremony, he took his family to Javier's Gourmet Mexicano for dinner: a classic at a classic. Since opening in 1977, Javier's in Park Cities has become an institution. The spectacular service never fails and neither does that butter they serve with the chips. You can go with a standard like nachos, but if you're up for branching out a little, get the fillet Durango, a charbroiled tenderloin stacked with cheese and chillaca peppers covered in their special black pepper sauce.

Alison McLean

Each meal at Taquero starts with a plate of super-crispy, thick tortilla chips and three kinds of salsas. Each time we visit, we pretend to forget which salsa we like the most, so that we can go through the ritual of trying them all again. The nutty brown salsa with roasted jalapeños has a fabulous balance of mellow sweetness and, at the very end, a serious peppery aftertaste. It's easy to have too much, especially on the restaurant's comfortable patio overlooking the end of Greenville Avenue. But save room, because the salsa verde goes well on a seafood tostada, one of Taquero's best specialties.

Alison McLean

Meridian is a possible future fine-dining landmark and a bona fide contender for our best new restaurant award. But we also can't stop thinking about its side order of potatoes. Chef Junior Borges and his crew fry these nuggets until they're the dark gold of a beach tan, with crunch on the edges and a creamy softness in the middle. Then the taters get dusted in dehydrated vinegar, which adds a tart fish-and-chips note of flavor, and pollen, which looks cool. It's hard to come up with a new, let alone iconic, spin on frying a spud, but those geniuses at Meridian have done the trick.

Courtesy of Oak Cliff Brewing

Oak Cliff Brewing had an unusually steep challenge when the pandemic set in: Almost all of its revenue came from bars and restaurants. The brewery didn't sell cans or bottles and made nearly every dollar on kegs. So they improvised, and with help from their landlord, built a spacious, leafy beer garden out back, next to a creek and in a glade of trees. The picnic tables, old-timey chains of lights and tin signage make the whole thing look like a very nice backyard party. And, since it's not really a cookout, there's a taco truck onsite. Our favorite touch: A converted snow cone van now functions as an outdoor bar, selling plastic cups of fresh beer. Though, we won't lie, sometimes we wish it had snow cones, too.

Alison McLean

If 2020 was the year of the quesabirria, Maskaras was the Dallas-area leader of the trend. With an ownership team from Guadalajara and years of birria-making experience, it was a natural fit. Quesabirrias may have saved the business; the ultra-trendy taco, which diners love to show off on Instagram, became such a runaway bestseller that Maskaras has closed early some nights and once even shut down for a short vacation to recover from demand. But there are other tacos here, too. Don't leave without trying the steak-topped Taco Maskaras or an order of tacos ahogados, fried tacos which are then "drowned" in a dusky red salsa. The way they still have their fried crispness, even under all that flavor, is a thrilling little miracle.

A longtime Duncanville institution, Thibodeaux's has everything you need in a good po boy: good bread that's not so good it steals the spotlight, fresh veggies and crispy deep-fried seafood. The catfish and shrimp options are both good, and while we're a little heartbroken that fried oysters aren't an option here, the sheer generosity of the po boys are a full consolation. There are two pieces of fish wedged into the loaf, for example. The only thing you'll need alongside is a basket of the terrific onion rings. Thibodeaux's online ordering system pairs well with a pre- or post-hike picnic at Cedar Ridge Preserve.

Brian Reinhart

If all the restaurants in Dallas got together to recount their pandemic woes, El Rincon del D.F. could one-up them all. First, before anyone ever got sick, the October 2019 tornado severely damaged the restaurant, forcing a temporary closure. The virus hit and infected many of the family members who own the business. As construction workers continued to make tornado repairs, a driver attempting suicide plowed a car into the restaurant, partially destroying it again. El Rincon reopened a year after the tornado, only to lose another week to February's power outages. And yet it's still here, still serving the city's best tortas with flavors as big as Mexico City. The torta Cubana is big enough for a family, so start with one of the other sandwiches, which will still be one of the most generous lunches in the region.

Alison McLean

In a city obsessed with smoked, cured and spiced meats, nobody does a charcuterie spread better or more generously than Petra and the Beast. Expect six kinds of meat in a rich variety, some spreadable on toast or crackers, some in terrines speckled with fruit or nuts, some sweet, some spicy. There will be big, bubbly crackers, too, and pickles, and jam. Petra's house-made spicy mustard makes everything better and can be purchased in a jar as a souvenir. This charcuterie board runs at the expensive end ($40), but it's so bountiful that a table of four people will have to work hard to finish it. And it's so delicious that the effort is worthwhile.

Alison McLean

There are many things to love about Ngon, which opened during the pandemic on Lower Greenville. We love its spring rolls, which come in many varieties, though "regular" might secretly be our favorite. We love the soups' richly seasoned broths, like the 24-hour pho and shrimp-topped banh canh. The meatballs on a platter of bun cha Hanoi smell like they've just come off a backyard grill, and the curries come with baguettes for dunking. Ngon is women-led, packs up takeout orders to perfection (soup broths are packed separately to prevent everything else overcooking) and the restaurant itself is comfortable, quiet and blessed with a tiny but nice patio. We couldn't ask for anything else.

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