Roots was years in the making, with a backstory of heroic effort in which the restaurant went through multiple plans and menu ideas. Chef Tiffany Derry's new home was worth every minute of wait, though, as every dish here is already locked in at excellence. This isn't a cartoonish simplification of Southern food or "soul" food. The proof is in the vegetables, which are divine in all their forms: tangy spring pea salad, savory braised greens and baby turnips, buttery corn ravioli and hummus made from black-eyed peas. The gumbo might be the best this city has ever seen, and the same is doubly true for the creamed corn, which Roots could profitably sell by the gallon jug. It's busy, and it's loud, but this restaurant is also a triumph.