Bacari Tabu Is a Revival of Dallas' Oldest Jazz Club

From the mid-'50s through the late '90s, multi-level jazz club Strictly Tabu was the hot spot for stiff drinks and swanky tunes. It was the oldest jazz club in Dallas until it closed and the space collected dust for over a decade.

Strictly Tabu's legacy was left to former regulars' word of mouth. Now, they're all returning to the little space on Lomo Alto Drive that is now Bacari Tabu, a subtle revitalization of the previous hangout.

The vision was brought to life by Julian Barsotti, a now Michelin-nodded chef behind Barsotti's, Nonna and Fachini.

Although it's not confirmed by anyone, at all, we believe the location of this club inspired the name. What feels like a movie-worthy New York-style jazz club is next to a dry cleaner and across the street from Whole Foods? That's actually taboo. And bacari means small wine bar. It's all perfect.

A neon sign out front tells you that you've made it to the right place. Open the door, pass the velvet drapes and take in the scene. The interior is decked out in a mix of loud and wild patterns like floral flamingo wallpaper and a granite-top bar lined with velour printed seats.

The layout travels longways so every table has an intimate view of the stage, and if you want to sit at a table, you most definitely need a reservation. However, the bar is reserved for walk-ins in case you strike out.

While Bacari Tabu is a revival of its predecessor, Barsotti insisted that the club be known for its food before its jazz. A hefty goal for some, but not difficult to execute as the club shares the same kitchen and menu as Nonna next door, one of Michelin's Bib Gourmand selections.

Venetian-style tapas make up roughly half of the menu, but there are also pizzas and a variety of house-made pasta dishes.

When you order, you have to juggle three hard truths:

Do you revel in nostalgia with pizza, what Strictly Tabu was known for? The fresh pasta made in-house? Or the selections from the yakitori grill — the one chef Teiichi Sakurai bought in Japan for chef Barsotti? Tough call. For us, the choice was made simple.

Nonna's menu is on a near-constant rotation, except for two menu items: The white clam pizza and the Maine lobster ravioli. Both have been parked on the menu for over 15 years. That's music to our ears. We ordered both.

All the pasta dishes are served as a mid-course, and if you want the full portion, it's an extra $9. Pictured above is the mid-course.

For the first time in our lives, we're describing a bowl of ravioli as light. They're all little pillows of fresh pasta filled with tender and mild crab. The sauce was its own force of nature and it's not often you're spooning for sauce as much as the pasta itself.
The white clam pizza is not what you'd expect. It's better.

It's a traditional cheese pizza but swap red sauce for a clam chowder-like base. To make the sauce, Barsotti steams clams with sweet onions, wine and olive oil, removes them as they pop, and fattens the liquid with some cream. Then, once you've ordered the pizza, the chefs add back in the chopped clams, fresh herbs, a pinch of red pepper and pecorino cheese.

We're huge fans of clam chowder, so we loved it, but even if you don't like the "from the sea" flavor, it's an essence more than it is one of the dominant flavors. If you order the ravioli with the pizza like we did, the edges of the crust are perfect for dipping into the ravioli broth.

It's clear wine is the priority as only a small, but respectable array of classic cocktails is served. The rest of the real estate goes to the curated wine list with reds, whites and reserves. A glass of Chianti Classico is a must, and if your wallet can bear it, so is a bottle of a Super Tuscan.

Bacari Tabu offers live jazz music starting at 7 p.m. on Thursdays and 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. Our visit had a trio getting everyone swaying to covers of modern and classic hits from Amy Winehouse to Billie Eilish, but their roster is always circulating with a variety of jazz talent. Get a table, or gather with the regulars at the bar.

Bacari Tabu, 4115 Lomo Alto Drive. Tuesday – Thursday, 5:30–11:30 p.m.; Friday, 5:30 p.m. – midnight; Saturday, 5:30 a.m. – 1:30 a.m.; Sunday – Monday, closed.