When you walk into The Statler, a distinctly Don Draper kind of aesthetic will greet you. Think wire-work chairs, marble galore and the kind of midcentury, swanky vibe that makes smoking seem like a reasonable choice. This fashionably vintage setting makes for an ideal brunch spot, and Overeasy — the first restaurant to open at The Statler — is just that. It is a place to see and be 'grammed, all while enjoying a cocktail and an equally photograph-worthy meal.
As Beth Rankin detailed, Overeasy's culinary direction comes from Graham Dodds. When Dodds' restaurant, Wayward Sons, closed in February, it was a sorrowful thing, for its brunch placed a strong emphasis on using good, local produce and plenty of it. And while Wayward's namesake cocktail — a boozy, spicy green juice of a drink — is no more, Overeasy's cocktail selection features plenty of fresh options, from a green take on the bloody mary featuring poblanos and green tomatoes (Proud Mary, $11), to a passion fruit-laced margarita ($11) and a veritable cucumber explosion in a glass (Green Acres, $11).
The rest of Overeasy's menu leans decidedly in the Southern, stick-to-your-ribs direction. Most dishes involve biscuits — heavenly pillows coated in all manner of unhealthy goodness, from fried chicken and bacon to sausage and gravy.
There's also a French-style omelette flecked with Parmesan and chives ($9) and avocado toast ($10) topped with black radishes — a stunning addition — for those who insist on pursuing a lighter, non-biscuit-based brunch.
The breakfast banana split ($7) makes for a cheeky and visually appealing side, but it failed to come together as a dish. Assorted fruits — berries, grapes, apples — were layered atop a split banana before being finishing with an avalanche of whipped cream. Fruit and whipped cream are fine, of course, but if the banana had been given a quick brûlée, or the cream had been swapped out for honeyed yogurt, well, then we might have had a dish worth doing the splits over.
The five-way deviled egg flight ($8), by comparison, was a jewel of a dish. From traditional to chimichurri and roasted pepper to smoked brisket, each egg acted as the carrier for a unique flavor profile. All were delicious, but the smoked brisket, topped with a bit of pickled okra, stole the show.
Set against the backdrop that is The Statler Hotel, Overeasy is a thing of a beauty. What makes it more beautiful still is its availability — you can enjoy the breakfast menu from open until close seven days a week. Brunch at 8 p.m. on a Wednesday? Don't mind if we do.
Overeasy, 1914 Commerce St. Breakfast served 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.
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