Taylor Monroe
Audio By Carbonatix
Papaya Kitchen recently opened on Lemmon Avenue near Highland Park, but this Vietnamese spot is hardly new. It’s the rebirth of Green Papaya, a community institution that served Oak Lawn for 20 years until closing in 2019.
The original owner, Alan Mai, is once again at the helm. Mai retired after the closure of the original Green Papaya but, according to a press release, “continued to feel his heart yearning for the aroma of the original Green Papaya kitchen.” The yearning was apparently mutual, as former customers often implored him to reopen the restaurant.
Papaya Kitchen general manager Alex Huynh (left) and owner Alan Mai are bringing back many of the recipes from the beloved Green Papaya.
Taylor Monroe
Mai came out of retirement to fill what he describes as a “void” in the Dallas dining scene and give back to the community that treated him well for 20 years.
“For those who frequented my previous establishment, your loyal support and patronage were the bedrock of its success,” Mai writes in a statement on Papaya Kitchen’s website. “The memories we created together and the culinary journey we embarked upon during those years were truly special. Now, with a renewed passion and commitment to excellence, I am eager to serve you once again.”
Papaya Kitchen’s menu will offer many of the dishes for which Green Papaya was known: shrimp spring rolls, flat noodle plates and the peanut sauce. Responses on both social media and Yelp appear to confirm Mai’s statement that the community was yearning for his food.
“I’ve been missing them since they closed five years ago,” writes one Yelp user. “It’s back and better than ever!”
The pork bowl is one dish that Papaya Kitchen fans have been missing for the last five years.
Taylor Monroe
Papaya Kitchen sets itself apart from its predecessor in its size and service model, focusing more on to-go orders and less on the traditional dine-in experience.
“The biggest difference between Green Papaya and Papaya Kitchen is the limited seating in Papaya Kitchen,” a representative for Papaya Kitchen tells the Observer. “The new space is a small storefront and Alan is primarily serving take-out food; however, If customers do want to eat in, there are seats available.”
In addition to changes made to the dining room, the food has been optimized towards this new format.
“The menu features all of the fan favorites from Green Papaya,” the representative tells us. “Because it is tailored more towards to-go food, it is a little slimmed down, but still has options for everyone.”
The list of items from Green Papaya’s menu that didn’t make the cut appears to largely consist of soups, seafood and large-scale appetizers, such as two sampler platters, green mussels and spicy tuna tartare.
These cuts make sense for a to-go centric menu, which would prioritize items that are easy to transport, won’t make a mess and won’t easily expire. Nevertheless, we extend our condolences to disappointed fans of these dishes.
In addition to standard Vietnamese fare like spring rolls, pork, beef and chicken bowls and flat noodle dishes, Papaya Kitchen also serves several flavors of boba, cafe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee), iced tea and coffee jelly. Cheesecake is available for dessert.
Papaya Kitchen, 5200 Lemmon Ave., No. 102, Monday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 8 p.m.
