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Taco 'bout perfection — the Texano taco ($2.50; second from left) is particularly radiant in all its beefy glory.EXPAND
Taco 'bout perfection — the Texano taco ($2.50; second from left) is particularly radiant in all its beefy glory.
Courtesy of Will Stark

100 Favorite Dishes, No. 63: The Brisket- and Cheese-Filled Texano Taco at Taquero

Leading up to September's Best of Dallas® 2017 issue, we're sharing (in no particular order) our 100 Favorite Dishes, the Dallas entrées, appetizers and desserts that really stuck with us this year.

Stumbling upon Taquero feels like finding an oasis in the desert. Happy bossa nova music streams from the speakers above the beautifully trendy-looking West Dallas taco stand, adorned with paintings of Frida Kahlo and lined with twinkling white lights. There are many reasons to love this new taco heavy-hitter — friendly service, inexpensive tacos, a cult-favorite horchata served in a sweet clay mug — but the biggest reason comes stuffed in a tortilla dripping with just the right amount of grease.

On a recent visit, it was hard to pick a favorite — especially after the owner brought out complimentary ceviche and beans — but one particularly Texas-y taco stood out: the Texano ($2.50), made with brisket, onion, cilantro and queso Oaxaca. The brisket is abundant and beautifully juicy, and it sings in sweet harmony with the lovably rubbery Oaxaca cheese, a semi-hard Mexican cheese that becomes outrageously indulgent when melted.

With a squirt of salsa on top of the Texano and a Texas summer breeze blowing as the sun sets over this adorable cash-only taqueria, it becomes abundantly clear: Taquero is a magical addition to the DFW taco scene.

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