Mercy Wine Bar Would Make Roy Orbison Proud

“Pretty woman, walkin’ down the street, pretty woman the kind I like to meet, pretty woman.  I don’t believe you.  You’re not the truth.  No one could look as good as you…Mercy!”  If rock ‘n roll pioneer Roy Orbison were alive today, he might take great pleasure in knowing that…

No Need Skimping on the Shrimp–Not in Mexico or Your Fridge

Forty tons of shrimp. That’s how many of the curvy crustaceans are processed and shipped from Mazatlan every year deservedly earning this jewel city of the Mexican Riviera its designation as “Shrimp Capital of the World”. (In fact, I’ve read estimates as high as 40,000 tons. In any case, that’s…

Going Gaelic at the Rugby House For St. Paddy’s Day

Well, it’s officially March, which means the coming of spring, college hoop madness, and yes, St. Patrick’s Day, which, in addition to attending the Observer’s annual Greenville Avenue parade, many Dallasites celebrate by visiting the North Texas Irish Festival, an entire weekend devoted to Irish music and dancing, not to…

Spring Break, Girls Gone Wild and Fish Tacos–Go Figure

How appropriate that fish tacos, the perfect beachside snack, were first introduced to the States by an American college student who became obsessed with them while on Spring Break at a Mexican beach. So says Barry Popik, eminent etymologist and Austin guru of word origins. Although most historians trace the…

The Lemon Bar Goes Bottomless at Brunch Time

This eye-popping alliteration can be found at the top of the menu at Lemon Bar, the hot new pub that set up shop in the West Village in the old Lazare space, down the block from Mi Cocina. Lemon Bar is a hopping, happening place, crowded at noontime on a…

At Luna de Noche, the Upscale Tex-Mex Formula’s Alive and Well

Are they links to dining nirvana…..or are they chains of fools? So goes the conundrum of chains, those bastions of food consistency so beloved by time-pressed suburbanites and so often despised by die-hard food lovers for their perceived and often very real mediocrity. Endless repetition of mundane cookery seven days…

For an Authentic Cuban Sandwich, Stay Away from Cuba

“Original Cuban sandwiches come from Ybor City; everything else is just a sub.” This rather controversial statement comes to us courtesy of Andy Huse, Assistant Librarian at the University of South Florida, as quoted in Cigar City Magazine. Immediately, most readers are probably thinking, “Wait a minute. Aren’t Cuban sandwiches…

Into the Origins of Carne Deshebrada, the Meat that Makes the Taqueria

In Venezuela, it’s called Carne Mechada. In the Caribbean, it’s known as Ropa Vieja. The Mexican version goes by the name Carne Deshebrada. In any case, shredded beef is an important component of the cuisines of several south-of-the-border countries. Here, we are talking about marinated, slow-cooked moist beef, as opposed…

On the Range: Chalupas

Chalupas or tostadas? Sometimes it’s hard to tell the difference. Of course you know what constitutes a tostada. That’s a flat, crispy disc made from corn, then loaded with all sorts of freight including lettuce, tomatoes, beans or meat, cheese, possibly pico or crema, and topped with salsa. Just like…

On The Range: Lengua

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Nobody gets tongue tied when the subject is, um, tongue.Writing in the Weekly Volcano (Tacoma and Olympia Washington’s “only edgy, irreverent, and thought-provoking alternative newsweekly”) Jake and Jason de Paul relate their encounter with lengua…

On The Range: Seafood Paella

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.There’s no doubt that the Spanish are passionate about paella. Paella is, of course, the painstaking meat, rice and vegetable dish traditionally cooked in (and often eaten from) a large, shallow pan. However, early versions…

On The Range: Habaneros

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Mad Cat, Insanity, Hogs Ass, Snake Bite, Idiot Boys. No, this is not the Granada’s line up for February. Rather, they are names of hot sauces featuring the dreaded habanero chile, as listed by Chris…

On The Range: Barbacoa

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Steamed, not smoked. According to Rick Bayless, chef extraordinaire and author of Mexico: One Plate at a Time, that’s the primary difference in preparing Mexican barbacoa and traditional Texas barbecue. True, barbacoa is slow-cooked like…

On The Range: Sopapillas

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Many of us got our first taste of sopapillas by raising the flag. Doesn’t make sense? Well, back when dining out options were fewer and farther between, Panchos Mexican Buffet was one of the few…

On The Range: Hatch Green Chiles

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.As the song says, deep in December it’s nice to remember…Every Labor Day, the tiny town of Hatch, New Mexico springs to life with the Hatch Valley Chile Festival. Thousands of Chileheads from all across…

On The Range: Jalapenos

On The Range is a weekly exploration of the history and lore of Texas menu items.Take a couple slices of meat and stuff them into my flour tortilla, along with some handy rice, beans, salsa and, finally, jalapenos. We know the last ingredient colloquially as a pepper, yet pepper is…