Bookwormed

William Guthrie is a collector: books, utensils, antiques, family photographs. Much of his trove peppers his restaurant, Guthrie’s. Guthrie says he has more than 1,500 hardback cookbooks, a collection of tomes that dates all the way to 1796 and one from which he pulls recipes. He also keeps old recipes…

Tabled

Young restaurant veteran Marie Grove opened Stolik Restaurant Lounge (which means little table in Czech) one year ago with all of the relish and bravado that often blurs twenty-something vision. She abandoned a scholarship to attend Southern Methodist University to take the Dallas landscape by storm, promising to exploit what…

A Bug or Two

What’s astounding about the Gaylord Texan Resort is this: no bugs. Not a single gnat, fly, ant, earwig or pill bug milling about the stone terraces or burrowing in the dirt. And there is plenty of dirt. The center node of the Gaylord is one gigantic terrarium with uncountable varieties…

Whatever

Now comes a lawyer who says I blew it. Roy Morris, an attorney representing former high-tech mogul Mark Floyd, says that statements published in the July 1 Hash Over column referring to Floyd as an investor in the defunct restaurant Vino & Basso are false. In that column, I referenced…

Tight Quarters

Saffron Room is soaked in amber. This is not surprising, given the luxuriously ruddy-yellow spice from which it takes its name. What is surprising is that this restaurant holds a mere 30 seats. This intimacy is exploited in the usual ways, with votive candles, sheers fencing the tables and pillows…

Legal Eats

A Savory warning was delivered not long ago. The warning was this: Savory’s menu will change shortly, and when that happens you won’t be able to get the chilled Moroccan tomato soup. Time it right, because missing the soup would be a blunder. Forewarned, we slipped into Savory on time…

Hip Hugger

Stolik means “little table” in Czech. The name is brilliantly captured on the menu: a tiny, crude, hand-stamped ink impression of a table, precisely pressed in the center of the creamy cover stock (a tiny barstool illustrates the bar menu). This expresses much: space, honesty, simplicity, warmth, timelessness. On this…

Tracking Steak

Old Hickory sommelier Darryl Beeson, a pro who has carved an impressive vine furrow through greater Dallas with stops at The French Room, The Mansion, Voltaire and Steel, says that 60 percent of the checks winding through the steak house’s coffers spring from locals. Given that Old Hickory is embedded…

Get Uppity

Employing Buddha to drive nightclub adrenaline is odd when you think about it. There are bars named after this enlightened fellow (here there was Buddha Bar before it went Bali Bar before it went bust), and Buddha busts and figures inexplicably fill nightclub alcoves, dugouts and pedestals. At Sambuca Uptown,…

Prickly Seat

Iron Cactus is the kind of place you reflexively rally around if you have even the tiniest traces of civic pride in your veins. Iron Cactus is just the sort of temple to healthy urban eating that Dallas needs in its endlessly fussed-over downtown: a sleek monument of brash architecture…

The Sweaty Hereafter

Weird how an entertainment complex centered on the afterlife is having such a hard time with the birthing part of the life cycle. But the on-again, delayed-again (mostly because of electrical transformer glitches) Purgatory on Main Street near Interstate 45 is cocked to shoot from the chute in the August/September…

Dare Call It Prime

G.F. Prime Steakhouse is excited about prime. A quick perusal of the menu confirms this. G.F. Prime has prime starters. G.F. Prime has prime salads. G.F. Prime has prime soups and sandwiches. G.F. Prime has prime entrées, prime “additions” and “The Prime Finish.” Are you primed yet? G.F. Prime is…

Let’s Make a Deal

All that’s left is the fat lady’s aria. Word has been pinballing around town and cyberspace for months that restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa, who operates Matsuhisa in Los Angeles and Nobu in New York as well as restaurants in London, Tokyo, Aspen, Las Vegas and Malibu, is close to slipping a…

Zilch

The aroma of wood burning grills. The light bouncing from brightly colored glass. An atmosphere that’s both warm and sleek. A memorable experience, from A to Z. Zolon. This is the promo prose about Zolon, “an everyday bistro,” posted on the restaurant’s Web site. The words are crisp and snappy,…

Moving On

Funny how what is gritty urban charm for some is a fly in the foie gras for others. Just take Deep Ellum’s critically acclaimed Standard 2706 restaurant on Elm Street, which chef/owner Tim Byres shut down on Father’s Day. “We always tried to give our customers exactly what they wanted,”…

Heathen Eating

Not far from the bass-boat-riven waters of Lake Ray Hubbard is Heath. Heath is a town of roads that curl and hog-leg through a sprawl of open grasses and sod fields buckled together by occasional subdivisions of homes bearing monstrous footprints and modest circa 1950s and ’60s ranch houses on…

The Basso Bounce

Chef Tony Gardizi is one of those wandering kitchen types. He’s piloted spatulas and whips at the Riviera, J. Pier in Terrell and the defunct Bali Bar, among others. Now he is executive chef of Guthrie’s, a restaurant fashioned in the former Rooster space by chef William Guthrie, who founded…

Velvet Boot

Il Mulino is the General George S. Patton of restaurants. Not because it is violently audacious or prances through Palermo and Messina–although it does flaunt langoustines from Sardinia–but because it is rife with a paradoxical snarl of highly calculated mannerisms and crudely whittled elegance bordering on caricature. Patton could be…

Comfort Loaf

This is what former New York Times food editor Raymond Sokolov has to say about meat loaf: Meat loaf…is a kind of joke. In fact, I can think of two funny things about meat loaf right off the top of my head. One is an off-color parting wish you have…

Trying Times

It used to be the Lighthouse Supper Club. The Lighthouse was a restaurant and bar on the shores of Lake Ray Hubbard. It aspired to be an old San Francisco-style dinner house. To that end, the restaurant included a lounge called “Club She.” Our Club She adventure included black hot…

Stein’s Online

Let’s pose a cosmic question: If you willingly jump among three jinxes, will they neutralize each other and spell fortune? Rick Stein seems to think so. Stein, former general manager of III Forks, has decided to thrust himself in the middle of a jinx trifecta: He’s opening a classic steak…

Suburban Slickers

Southlake has a big sky. There doesn’t seem to be much of a lake if you don’t count the water hazards at Timarron Country Club. And it isn’t really all that much south, at least from Dallas vantage points. But it does have a big sky. It also has intriguing…