Restore Your Meat-Pummeled Body with Ali Baba’s Tabouleh

It’s a bit tiresome to hear a critic gripe about all the food they’re forced to eat. (There are worse ways to make a living.) After reviewing near back-to-back Southern comfort restaurants, though, I felt pretty pummeled with fat and meat. I needed a break. While interviewing an Italian chef…

Breaking Down Mooyah, Dallas’ Second-Favorite Burger. Allegedly.

Last week the Dallas Morning News tallied the votes and crowned its burger king. Angry Dog, the Deep Ellum grease pit with a loyal following, beat out Mooyah Burger, the Dallas-based burger chain built on double-meat patties and french fries with a cooking process you need an engineering degree to…

The Magic Behind Peticolas Brewing Company’s Velvet Hammer

I first encountered Velvet Hammer at Eno’s. I was wrapping up “research” for an upcoming review and wanted to unwind in Oak Cliff. If you haven’t had the chance to drink beer with Jake Reck, the super-bearded bartender who’s often working the upstairs bar, you should — Reck knows his…

At Jeff Harris’ Bolsa, One Dish Reveals the Chef’s Chops

“You can always judge the quality of a cook or restaurant by roast chicken,” Julia Child once wrote. I’m not sure if she was the first to utter those words, but they have been hers ever since. They’re words I happen to believe in. I’ve devoted too much time to…

How to Eat the Grape’s Mussels

Offering mussels on a menu is a lot like offering a burger. You see both everywhere, and each is highly dependent on the primary ingredient. Mussels are especially finicky — they’re only as good as they are tonight, and tomorrow they may be a complete disappointment in the same dining…

Solving the Mystery of Melting Cheeses

My recent investigation into the endless cycle of queso enjoyment promoted a question in the comments. After I described a bubbling plate of molten cheese primi timpano asked: A little surprised at the bubbling cheese as I thought cheese heated to these temperatures would result in broken proteins. Does Velveeta…

The Credit Card Conundrum

OK. It’s your first day at work at some random French cafe. You’ve never waited tables before, but you aced the interview and somehow convinced the manager that you were ready for the big time. Your first table is seated. It’s a four-top. Old ladies lunching. And after they place…