Food & Drink

The Sixth Floor Museum has expanded into the 501 Elm Building across N. Houston Street from the museum, with administrative offices upstairs and a really cool new café and store on the ground level. The café, with food from La Duni and excellent coffee, looks out on the site of the city's great shame, the event that labeled us "The City of Hate," which means that French tourists can sip lattes and despise us in air-conditioned comfort. This has to be good for the economy. Meanwhile, the store offers work by local artisans and Fair Trade/Eco-Friendly manufacturers, some with references to Kennedy, some of it more about the Kennedy era and Dallas. Name another city that has turned its worst disability into a profit center.

Crisp pastel meringue filled with vanilla, pistachio lavender or raspberry paste, these are macaroons from heaven above. Nothing wrong with traditional macaroons, but the macaroon can be so much more than a wad of coconut. Every country has its own variation. Be glad you're not a Scot (think in terms of leftover mashed potatoes). Now, Oak Cliff has its own signature macaroon—one so delectable it might knock the coconut kind off its throne one day. Shop Rush Patisserie online, or, better yet, visit the store and tempt yourself with all sorts of artisanal delights—breakfast pastries, quiche, chocolate and fresh fruit confections, cookies and cakes.

James Thurber once said "One martini is all right. Two are too many, and three are not enough." And we couldn't agree with him more. This year's top pick for best martini goes to Inwood Lounge, part of the art deco Inwood Theatre off West Lovers Lane. Why? Well, it just happens to be a full-service martini bar. Wait. That's not all. Gin. Vodka. Vermouth. The Inwood Lounge has it all, and the bartenders know what they're doing when it comes to concocting everything from a classic martini to a chocolate one. We suggest attending one of the Midnight Madness movie showings, and while you're waiting, order up a dirty martini and slowly sip it while relaxing at a table by the cascading water wall. Oh, and you might want to hold onto the olives because the only food here is popcorn.

Dallas has no shortage of great burgers, and we've eaten most of them—The Stodg at The Porch, Twisted Root, Wingfield's...we could go on and on. But for sheer consistency, the half-pound Angry Dog Burger gets the nod every time. It's always there for you. No bullshit lunch-only hours, no Sunday and Monday only availability (we're looking at you, The Grape), and no wussy health restrictions—you want it medium rare, you're getting it medium rare, and piled high on a perfectly toasted bun, to boot. And at $6.75 with fries—which we like to douse liberally in the Dog's spicy seasoning salt—it's still one of the cheapest destination burgers in town.

You get the feeling that many of the regulars at Barbec's have been coming there since Johnny Cash and Kris Kristofferson first played "Sunday Morning Coming Down" together 30 some-odd years ago. It's a testament to the East Dallas mainstay's good old-fashioned, no-frills country-style breakfast. No frills, that is, until you take the first bite of Barbec's famous beer biscuits. Washing down the sweet, buttery biscuit with that first cup of coffee is the perfect way to warm up a hungry stomach just before ordering the "Double Barrel Breakfast." The popular platter features two eggs, two pancakes and bacon or sausage, and it's certain to satisfy any hunger—or hangover.

Get it with brunch—a pile of these dry ham flakes on the side—and you'll wonder why you bothered ordering anything else. The ham has a way of taking over. Smoked out back with a blend of mesquite, pecan, cedar and oak, or in the hundred-year-old smokehouse indoors, a taste of chef Tim Byres' ham is like discovering a whole new animal. Nothing about it suggests the watery vacuum-sealed lunch meat you knew before. You'll find there are fatty pieces and crustier ones, but all of it sweet, smoky and hard to forget—and, we'll just come out and say it, oddly like the breading on a Chicken McNugget. An unlikely comparison, maybe, but in the city's best spot for fancy barbecue, it's the standout meat. You'll realize it's what ham should taste like, and everyone else is doing it wrong.

When our sweet tooth takes over and we're craving something more than an ordinary, run-of-the-mill dessert, the first place we think of is Crème De La Cookie. The Snider Plaza treat boutique bakes up irresistible cookies, cake balls, cupcakes, bars and brownies, as well as signature offerings like the whoopie pies with marshmallow butter cream (a gourmet take on a Moon Pie) or fudge brownie towers drenched in chocolate ganache known as Screamin Os. Last year, Forbestraveler.com featured the spot's OMG Chocolate Chip Cookie as one of the top in the nation, noting the cookie's "deep rich flavor" and high-quality ingredients like Schokinag Chocolate imported from Germany. Crème De La Cookie is also one of only a handful of places in Dallas where you can get a cup of coffee brewed with beans from Chicago-based Intelligentsia Coffee, which the shop used in a few of the delectable treats, like the wonderfully gooey Chocolate Espresso Chip.

Sure, we can appreciate an aesthetically pleasing cheese board with locally sourced artisan meats and gherkins, a platter of Thai-inspired steamed mussels and other fancy-pants gastropub fare. Still, when we think of bar food, we're thinking cheap, crispy and brown. And with its beer-battered onion rings, jalapeño-topped cheese fries and tasty burger, it's clear that the cooks at the Landing know their way around a deep fryer and a flat grill. Nary an item tops the $10 mark, and the food is served late enough that you can give your stomach lining a healthy coating of grease before you try to drive home.

Chef Michelle Carpenter doesn't just have casual fans; she has devotees. The half-Japanese/half-Cajun sushi expert is known for her elaborate Omakase dinners, which grant her the freedom to serve whatever she feels like making (get ready to be wowed by such items as popcorn-sized fried octopus, smoked apple and bacon yakitori and a miso-marinated black cod that's worship-worthy). Her sushi-making skill has been called performance art, with impeccable slices of raw fish molded like tiny sculptures over rice. She's known for adding touches of Southwestern flavors to her sushi, strips of lime, speckles of jalapeño or cilantro. Our own critic commended her for her raw fish respite blazing trails in Oak Cliff's Bishop Arts District.

Let's say you have the sudden need to throw a party for 50 at your home and most of the guests are from the East Coast where the chance of them experiencing genuine Tex-Mex is not only unlikely, it's unheard of. You are short on time, and your spouse is no damn help, so you call Pappasito's Cantina and book the evening and food and watch as they do the rest. On the appointed evening, they swoop in, set up tables, chairs, festive decorations. They man a frozen margarita machine, which you sample for taste. A lot. A cook stands over an industrial strength mesquite grill, preparing tasty chicken and beef fajitas. Several more staff work the quesadilla station that will rock your world. Their professional servers offer just that, professional service, and best of all, after the party peaks and the guests begin to leave, they clean up after themselves. Which is its own blessing, because it's late and you're too smashed to even try.

This Gulf-style seafood shack is about as basic as they come—especially in this neighborhood—with a counter-service interior that's so cramped that the patio's picnic tables can look attractive on even the hottest of days. The menu isn't much more complicated than the design, offering only a few items (seafood cocktails, gumbo and, of course, raw oysters) that don't get a dunk in the deep fryer. But by keeping it simple, Aw Shucks manages to get the fried food right. Shrimp, oysters, crab cakes, catfish and various combinations are all served sizzling hot, crispy and with enough batter to give the protein a fun wrapping but not enough to bog the seafood down with grease. Lord knows there's enough oil in the Gulf as it is. Get a side of the jalapeño-studded hush puppies and coleslaw and the basket suddenly becomes a meal for two.

There is no doubt that Pappas Bros. Steakhouse leads the market in dedication to wine. With four staff members (one master, one advanced and two certified sommeliers) dedicated to its wine program, the Houston based steakhouse considers wine a priority for its customers. Pappas Bros. also has a weekly continued education program in wine for its staff members. Pappas stocks 36,000 bottles and 2,800 labels of wine with price points beginning at a comfortable $36 to an astronomical $70,000. What makes selecting wine at Pappas so incredibly easy is that you can select a price point and they will always choose an appropriate wine suitable for your occasion—often for less than what you might suggest.

Sure, it's possible: You could drive an hour and a half to a small town or distant suburb and find better barbecue. But if you're gonna drive that far you might as well keep on truckin' to Lockhart. For those seeking a barbecue lunch without needing a whole tank of gas, Mike Anderson's will be there waiting, serving up the same delicious ribs, pulled pork, hot links and sides they've been serving since 1982. The brisket can be hit or miss—no barbecue joint in the city limits can really work that Central Texas magic with the cut—but when it's on, it's really good. And when it's not, a dip in the best barbecue sauce in town will bring just about anything to life (we especially recommend the spicy jalapeño version). Just make sure to check out the online menu before you pop in—the mouth-watering smell of smoke hits hard as soon as you reach the door, and if you dawdle too long at the ordering station, the rest of the line's liable to get restless, as well they should. After all, there's eatin' to be done.

Breakfast is not a leisurely meal. Breakfast is not a social hour. Breakfast—says it right there in the name—is when you wake your arse up and put something in that rumbling tumbly of yours so that you can get your day rolling. If you want to spend four hours languishing over eggs that got cold three hours and 57 minutes ago, fine. But that's called brunch. If you want to eat some basic, tasty grub that will satisfy you and not be bothered while you read the paper, head to the Gold Rush over in Lakewood, where nobody would look twice if you walked in without pants on. The line is long on weekends. Why? Because those people are eating brunch, which is not, and we absolutely mean to keep harping on this, breakfast. Get there early, like a proper breakfaster, and order the migas and a coffee. You'll be in and out before the hangover crowd figures out whose bed they're waking up in.

For Pasand, you'll have to trek to Campbell and Coit. There are closer Indian lunch buffets and full-service dinner offerings, but if you have the time it's worth the drive. When it comes to samosas (both vegetarian and lamb) and dosa (fermented rice and lentil crepe) stuffed with savory veggies, there's just no better. The service? The service is simply amazing. And the strip-malled eatery takes that further than the dining room: One of the best things Pasand has going for it is its catering. They can throw a mess of chicken tikka masala your way no problem, but better yet, they can adjust the seasoning to accommodate your guest list. Got a wedding and the fam isn't too keen on spice? No worries. They can provide a mild masala, a plain tandoori and then amp up your favorites like kadhai paneer.

If you're in the mood for something out of the ordinary, Victor Tango's aims to please with a menu that includes roasted bone marrow (sounds disgusting but is quite good). Not feeling daring? Then we suggest the chicken and waffles, paired together as one delicious dish at Victor Tango's. The history of the unlikely pairing is murky at best, with most accounts referencing its introduction into black culture in the 1800s, but a trip to Victor Tango's is all you need to understand why the two were ever put on the same plate.

The Alligator Café doesn't serve hurricanes, New Orleans' most popular cocktail. The chef-owned Cajun restaurant only serves beer and wine, but that's a Big Easy indiscretion easily overlooked because the food is always so damn good. Chef Ivan Pugh has crafted a spot-on menu of Cajun and Creole staples with a few unfamiliar surprises. We like to start with an order of fried green tomatoes or boudin balls and end with bread pudding or sweet potato pecan pie. For the main course, we like everything from the po-boys and gumbo to the muffalettas and jambalaya, but our favorite is the Atchafalaya (two blackened catfish smothered in a rich crawfish or shrimp étouffée). Be warned: Popular items, like the pie, tend to run out by the end of the day, but that's a small price to pay when the menu's made from scratch—even Alligator Café's root beer is "homemade." The restaurant features live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, and the dining area of the converted fast food joint tends to fill out faster than Bourbon Street during Mardi Gras. Luckily, even if the place is packed to the gills, there's always the drive-through.

There's a time and place for fancy gourmet thin-crusts or pricey wood-fired pies with goat cheese and pine nuts. But when you just want a simple, New York-style big, floppy, chewy slice with house-made sauce and fresh high-quality toppings, Oak Cliff Pizza is the place to go. Be sure to get sausage, as the place offers nice thick slices of Jimmy's Italian sausage rather than the crumbled generic stuff so common at lesser pizza joints. Also recommended is roasted red pepper. Best of all, they offer single slices, with two costing you less than a five-spot, or a full meal deal with two slices, a soda and salad for $5.

Tracking down a memorable place to eat outside the friendly confines of Dallas proper can be tricky, but we've finally found a place worthy of a short trip at The Shops at Legacy in Plano. The hickory smoke-filled Artin's Grill is the perfect place for a business lunch or dinner with that special someone, with a dining area that features African mahogany booths, stone columns, dramatic ceilings, abstract art and a wine display that creates the illusion that the bottles are floating. The menu is packed with tasty items, but our fave is the braised beef short ribs. These tender and juicy strands of meat are braised for five hours before they're placed into a cabernet pan sauce and served with haricots verts and a delicious mushroom mac and cheese. Better yet, order the beef short rib nachos as an appetizer so everyone can get a taste.

Browsing Penzeys Spices' selection of more than 250 different herbs, spices, seasonings, sprinkles and blends from around the world is enough to make one's head spin. Especially while trying to choose between numerous different peppercorns, chili powders or cinnamon (they stock more than a half-dozen different varieties of each), but, luckily, as you sniff your way around the store, the knowledgeable employees are always ready with suggestions to help you spice up any recipe from tacos, burgers or curries to cakes, cookies or custards. But the best part about Penzeys is that if you don't have time to make a trip to the store, there's always the expedited shipping from the company's online catalog. Penzeys has sold its world-wide array of spices by mail order for more than 20 years now, opening its first storefront in '97. (The Dallas spot opened in 2005.) Our new favorite purchase is the new salt-free Arizona Dreaming, which is an all-purpose blend that lends a "South of the Border" flavor to any dish. Warning though, once you go Penzeys Spices, you never really go back.

We could have given Bolsa tons of awards. Best flatbread. Best mussels. Best bartender. Best bartender with muscles. You get the picture. But it's really all those other bests that make it simply the best place to take a date because when you're on a date, you want the best of everything, right? After absorbing the ultra-cool ambiance created by the inspired renovation of a former auto garage, we recommend sitting at the bar for your meal, where "Lucky" the bartender's use of fresh fruit while making drinks is exhilarating to both observe and consume. Bolsa's food menu is all about freshness too, so it changes daily depending on what's available. Look, the best way to ensure that your after-dinner plans go smoothly is to eat someplace where you know the dinner will be a home run every time, and Bolsa's combination of food, drinks, atmosphere and service always clears the fence.

If you're in the mood for something out of the ordinary, Victor Tango's aims to please with a menu that includes surprisingly scrumptious roasted bone marrow. It tastes like the fat from a juicy rib-eye steak, which might not sound very appealing either, but trust us on this one, if there ever was a time to pull the trigger on the unconventional choice, this is it. Served with toasted brioche and onion confit—sweet caramelized onions seasoned with herbs and balsamic vinegar—three large bones are split down the middle, exposing gelatinous marrow. It's not for everyone, but for 10 bucks, you'd be hard-pressed to find something as adventurous and affordable.

When Avila's closed for several months following a nasty family spat that resulted in a dramatic court case and a new splinter restaurant across town (Ricardo Avila's Mextopia), we at the Dallas Observer openly wept. Whether it was the Number One Enchilada Special—seriously, these are the best cheese enchiladas in town—the Anna Maria Plate (one soft cheese taco, one cheese enchilada and one beef taco), the brisket tacos or the vegetarian-friendly black bean enchiladas, we all mourned our standing orders, remarking constantly that our other lunch destinations just didn't hold up. So when Avila's finally reopened their doors again, we were like little kids on Christmas morning, heading straight down the street to order our favorites and munch on some of the best chips and salsa in town. And since they took the downtime to remodel the interior, the bathroom's not even in the kitchen anymore. Though honestly, with Tex-Mex as good as this, we never seemed to mind.

Hattie's is one of Oak Cliff's best restaurants, with a clean, inviting interior and a menu full of delicious, upscale Southern comfort food. But it's their occasional brunch special, the chicken and waffles, that keeps us coming back. The giant buttermilk fried chicken breast dozing on the plate-sized Belgian waffle will bring tears to any true Southerner's eye, and the red chile-flecked maple syrup that accompanies it makes the experience even more decadent. So cancel all your Sunday afternoon plans, head on over to Hattie's and enjoy the inevitable five hour nap you will take as a result of this ultimate brunch dish.

Before you Chipotle Mexican Grill lovers claim that Freebirds stole the concept of made-to-order burritos from Chipotle, we'll kindly point out that Freebirds was born in 1987 in California—six years before the first Chipotle opened in Colorado. Not only was Freebirds first with the idea, they do it best by offering better ingredients and more of them. Start out with your choice of burrito—roasted carnitas (pork), grilled steak, grilled chicken or veggie—and the combinations are nearly endless once you start picking a tortilla, cheese, beans and greens. And just when you thought your job was done, Freebirds offers seven different sauces, including lime juice, bad-ass barbecue and its death sauce, which somehow ranks below habenero on the hotness scale.

After successful endeavors in Houston and Austin, Perry's (not to be confused with The Place at Perry's) finally found its way to Dallas in April, adding yet another upscale steakhouse to a crowded market, not to mention another restaurant named Perry's. While we've found plenty of reasons to dine at Perry's regularly, no menu item has us coming back as often as its turtle soup, which is hard to find anywhere, much less a bowl this tasty. For those unfamiliar with the delicacy, turtle soup is indeed made with the flesh from turtles—in Perry's case, farm-raised snapping turtles from Louisiana. (Who knew Cajun turtles tasted so good?) Prepared in a tomato base, this soup is worth recommending to anyone without a PETA membership card, and for those riding the fence, it's served with dry sherry on the side to ensure you'll get buzzed while taking the plunge.

When it comes to getting a major jolt from a single cup of straight, black coffee, there's really nothing around town that gives you a bigger caffeine bang for a buck than a 12-ounce Styrofoam cup of "Danny's Motor Oil." And the only place to get a cuppa the stuff is at Coffee Company Incorporated, a Lakewood-area coffee roaster and market that's been roasting coffee since 1971. Which, if you know your coffee history, means Coffee Co. has been browning beans for folks as long as Starbucks, but Coffee Co. isn't a "coffee shop" in the modern Starbucks sense of the word. With only a couple of chairs up front near the shop's fire-engine red Probat roaster, the closet-sized shop is more a coffee roaster and retailer than a hangout. And the shop's hours of operation (10 a.m. to 7 p.m. most days) mean that you'll have to grab your early morning fix elsewhere. Danny's Motor Oil is named for the shop's roaster and co-owner Danny Furr who—using the shop's fresh-roasted beans—brews the coffee up as black as night.

This gastropub in Oak Cliff in the former Kavala location just opened its doors, and chef Kelly Hightower made a big impression on us on the first night of business. The blowtorch salmon with yuzu miso glaze on the "Small Plates" menu was a standout item. Fresh fish was coated with the sweet and savory Japanese sauce and torched to a perfect texture, with the tacky glaze clinging to the flaky exterior while the interior remained soft. We've heard of desserts being caramelized with a blowtorch, but now we're wondering if the tool is underutilized in most kitchens. As the salmon is served with a spinach salad, it would be tempting to just order two or three plates of it and call it a meal—if the hummus, pizzas and entrées weren't so tempting as well.

The folks at Gun Barrel Hot Sauce appear quite proud of their roots 60 miles southeast of Dallas, which would be Gun Barrel City, of course, where the company began in 1989. But we're most proud of Gun Barrel's move to Dallas, where it makes the best hot sauce you'll find in a city with no shortage of options. While a bit pricey at $4.99 per pound and only available at select grocers like Whole Foods, Gun Barrel's ingredients are straightforward and as fresh as you'll find. There are four varieties—mild, medium, X Hot and XXX Hot—but we've only tried one, the XXX. Perhaps it's our propensity to buy things that say "XXX Hot" no matter what they are, but we stumbled on the ideal blend of spices. No need to mess with perfection.

With its sign boasting "ATM Lotto Money Order Cigars" and rack of spank mags near the front door, it looks like just another crummy, run-down convenience store where you're more likely to find Steel Reserve malt liquor and thinly veiled drug paraphernalia than a decent beer. But check out the back cooler and you'll be surprised by the selection of microbrews and imports, including a few we've never seen elsewhere. Even better, the store keeps a list of customer stocking requests. In one memorable visit, we inked in an appeal for Ten FIDY, an expensive and difficult-to-find imperial stout, just below where a shaky hand had scrawled "Strawberry Banana MD 20/20." It was heartwarming to see that the place is willing to take care of you whether you want expensive craft beer or rotgut wine—or Steel Reserve, for that matter.

Go to any farm within 100 miles of Dallas on any Friday before lunch and you will witness high anxiety stirring within the pig population. That's when Perry's begins serving its massive pork chop special, where men, mostly, even those who attempt to follow the dietary laws of their religion, can't resist the hot off the grill, cured, roasted and rubbed flavor of three or so huge hunks of pork flesh and bone. Each is big enough to choke a horse (sorry for the mixed husbandry metaphor). The pig comes with whipped potatoes and applesauce and can be bought every day, but only as a special on Pork Chop Fridays for the low, low price of $10.95. If you think we exaggerate the size of these chops, do a drive-by of Perry's each Friday on McKinney at say, 1:30 p.m., and see grown men standing in a valet line, waiting for their cars, each holding the same Perry's doggie bag filled with what they could not possibly consume in a single sitting. A late afternoon snack awaits them, not to mention a nap.

Year after year we have been reluctant to give best bagel props to Einstein Bros. Bagels (though we did in 2004), not so much because they didn't bake up a good bagel, but rather because they did. See, we figured good wasn't good enough—not when we were seeking the best...of. Like lox spread on a sesame bagel, we wanted to scatter the bready plaudits around, but delis ruin our plans by going out of business: first Gilbert's then Ed's, then Roasters, now Zinsky's. But the bagel behemoth that is Einstein's continues to dominate, and truthfully few other bagel stores came to mind. Face it, their bagels are fresh, sometimes even warm, their cream cheese tasty and varied, and their staff will slice your order upon request—though getting the halves evenly sized is still a bit dicey. Nonetheless, we honor Einstein's not so much by default, but for their perseverance in good times and bad. Though one judge would only cast his vote for Einstein's if we assured him that he could voice his one objection to the chain: "Blueberry bagels are a crime against nature." There, now it's unanimous.

Choosing a margarita isn't as easy as you'd think. If we're gonna pull the trigger, rest assured it won't be for some overpriced Slurpee with a shot of tequila. Gloria's not only has the best-priced margaritas in the city at only three bucks, but at 11 ounces, they don't skimp you on size. They also pour in enough Manik tequila to give them just the right kick, and their ice-to-margarita ratio is both spot-on and consistent. Atmosphere counts too, so it helps that Gloria's has some of the best Mexican food in town. After all, why wouldn't you want to keep down all those $3 margaritas with some enchiladas verdes?

Cosmic Café has been providing a peaceful and inviting atmosphere for diners who are looking for a vegetarian meal option for more than 20 years now. They also offer complimentary yoga upstairs on various days of the week and Zen poetry readings every Monday night, among other classes and events. But let's concentrate on one specific thing, shall we? If you look under the Celestial Light Offerings section on the menu, you will see the Portobello Trance—portobello mushrooms with spinach and onions sautéed in a garlic-basil butter sauce served on nan with cream cheese and tomatoes. One bite and this entrée will have you chanting "mmm" instead of the usual "om."

With chicken-fried oysters and spicy fried lobster on the menu, it might appear as though chef Blythe Beck turned Central 214 into the State Fair, but her innovative creations have instead transformed it into one of the city's finer restaurants. Even for someone who isn't much of an oyster fan, it's worth the 14 bucks for the appetizer to try Beck's unique creation. Once the six breaded oysters are served, the feeding frenzy begins. A few extra dips in the creamy lemon mustard garlic sauce could cost you a shot at the final one if you're not alone. If only you could take a ride on the Ferris wheel as a consolation prize.

Take this honor with a small grain of salt, Lakewood Landing. See, we've never been sober when we've had the corny dogs that you serve late at night. But, when drunk? Holy crap, those things are the greatest dogs we've ever eaten. They're just so amazing—and warm, too—and, honest, we've started to no longer mind that you close your kitchen before you close your bar. We like the fact that we stroll into your dark confines, saunter up to the bar and slur out something that, realistically, probably sounds like we're saying "Wha crumbly don, peas," and, better yet, you don't even shoot us a second glance—you just go get us a hot dog on a stick dipped in corn-bread batter. And for that, you're our heroes. Even if we won't remember it tomorrow.

Pizza Lounge opened its doors late last year at the corner of Exposition Park Boulevard and Parry Avenue (across the street from the DART Rail Green Line's Fair Park Station), and the pizzeria and lounge quickly made a name for itself in the Expo Park area thanks to its made-from-scratch gourmet pizza pies, with names like the Sofa King and the Nickel Bag, and a very tweet-friendly drink special. The Po Boy Special includes a shot of tequila and a can of Schlitz for $3 and you can add a slice of pizza for $4. A perfect late-night trio, but if you're worried that one slice won't be enough, then add an order of the spot's popular "sauerkraut balls," an appy made with sausage and sauerkraut that's then breaded and fried.

Scene: Fish City Grill

Time: Any "R" month

Dad: "Son, it was a brave man who ate the first oyster."

Son, giving it right back: "It was a brave man who ate the first anything."

Dad, smiling: "True."

Waitress: "Here's your Oyster Nachos. Enjoy."

Dad digs in to an ample appetizer plate; Son, not so much. Each fried oyster is adorned with pico de gallo perched atop a tortilla chip lathered with a thin layer of chipotle tartar sauce. The result: a crunchy, fishy, tasty, briny, spicy, chewy burst of taste and texture. Fish City has been known to stand behind their appetizer; this particular waitress even tells Dad if he doesn't like the Oyster Nachos, he doesn't have to pay for them. It's a foolish man who would refuse that offer.

The food here is served "push-along" style, with diners shoving trays in front of glassed-in troughs filled with Greek and Middle Eastern goodies. On the veggie counter are traditional dolmas, kibbie rolls, falafel, tabouli, baba ghanooge (that's how they spell it), Egyptian okra and fresh salads piled with tomatoes and onions, Mediterranean-style. The cranberry-mushroom salad and the couscous are light but intriguingly seasoned. On the meat side are beef, lamb and chicken kebabs and fork-tender broiled lamb shanks in rich mushroom gravy. Dessert is—what else?—baklava dripping with honey. Just the kind of casual, wallet-pleasing ethnic joint the busy Knox-Henderson dining corridor can be proud of.

Go Oak Cliff is a nonprofit neighborhood news and advocacy operation with a mission to "develop North Oak Cliff as the most livable community in the nation." Judging by the website's news coverage, it seems that the single most important factor in livability is restaurants. There's some truth to that in Oak Cliff for sure, as dining destinations such as Smoke, Bolsa and Tillman's Roadhouse have been crucial in attracting people from outside the 'hood in to visit and see what a thriving, lively neighborhood it is. And when a new restaurant like Nova, Lucia or Burguesa Burgers even thinks about the neighborhood, you can bet that you'll find out about it at gooakcliff.com.

Shiny, new and surrounded by buzz: Dallas restaurants love being all three, and with a sprawling metroplex in which to spread out, classy strip mall dining isn't even an oxymoron these days. But we promise we're not just being contrarian when we give this year's best new restaurant award to an old one—The Green Room. Throughout the '90s and early aughts, the upscale Deep Ellum restaurant served hordes of live music fans before shutting down. Its empty shell loomed over Elm Street for four years until this summer, when managing partner Taylor Allday brought the place—and the block—back to life with a seasonal menu that pays respect to old favorites (mussels!) and cooks up brand new ones (root beer crème brûlée!). Trust master chef Joel Harloff with a "Feed Me, Wine Me" tasting menu. Soft-opening samples of quail, pork tenderloins and spinach salads have inspired us to happily hand over our palates to Green Room experts.

You remember Victory Park don't you? (Crickets chirp.) In Dallas? Downtown? Going to remake the city? Remember? (More crickets chirp.) C'mon, it's that place you walk through to get to a Mavs game (a sudden burst of "oohhh"). OK, so things haven't quite worked out for the shiny—and frequently empty—development. But now there's a reason to go down there that doesn't involve basketball. Naga Thai is bravely treading where angels pick up their skirts and scarper, offering a sleek, modern take on traditional Thai food. Crab Rangoon is a tasty blend of crunch and creamy cheese. The brightly sauced sweet chili sea bass is crispy outside, flaky and tender within. A fresh, expansive lunch buffet lets you sample a variety of curries and entrées showcasing Thai food's unique mix of spicy, sweet and tangy. Better still, it's all surprisingly affordable, unlike dishes at some of the other restaurants that once upon a time filled space in Victory, God rest their souls.

Most places that serve fried cheese offer the same tired, chain restaurant examples of the dish straight out of the freezer, but the Porch elevates this, the trashiest of apps, into something fantastic and, dare we say it, highbrow. They start with a creamy and mild Port Salute cheese, doing the French monks that first produced it proud with an amazingly light, crispy batter and a warm pomodoro sauce for dipping. Sure, the dish will set you back considerably more than an order of mozzarella sticks at Sonic ($9, to be exact), but the taste will stay with you forever. Seriously—in our dreams, this is what clouds taste like.

Although there are several notable dining spots in the Bishop Arts District, Tillman's Roadhouse—an Oak Cliff staple since it opened as Tillman's Corner in 1992—is one that's sure to lasso you in. The décor and menu are about as Texan as it gets, which is nice for those of us who, well, love Texas. You see, Tillman's knows Texans can be picky about things as simple as mac and cheese, so it went the extra mile to ensure folks don't drop five bucks for something that tastes like the crap you can buy at the store. Nope, they turned simple into stellar with a white cheddar that will make you wish you hadn't agreed to share.

You won't find many bottles of Listerine in the bathroom of a restaurant, but after a taste of the hummus at Cafe Izmir, you know exactly why it's there: The hummus is packed with so much garlicky goodness that only a true aficionado can appreciate it. But rest assured that if the garlic is too much for you, "date night" hummus is available, and it's the same blend of sesame seed butter, whipped garbanzo beans, olive oil and spices that makes the regular hummus so smooth, creamy and delish. And if you really want to impress your date, bring them by during one of the many art shows at Cafe Izmir. Just don't forget a swig of the Listerine on your way out.

This is no boutique cupcake—it's not your wedding cake, there's no handmade paper wrapper and it won't even cost you six bucks. These cupcakes look great, but they look natural—a little uneven around the frosting, one lip of the cupcake spilling over a little more than the other. The frosting may stick to the wax paper in the box. This is what cupcakes do; go ahead, lick the paper. Society holds food drives, collects clothes donations and gives to charity—so even if three cupcakes in one sitting is a bad idea for you, your purchase is probably helping someone in need. You want the red velvet; the chocolate, loaded down with peanut butter frosting; and then one more, a wild card—a whoopie pie or banana chocolate chip. Take comfort knowing this is no fad. It's how cupcakes were meant to be: a little lumpy on one side and eaten by the boxful.

Dallas is known for its houses of steak, great big palaces of mahogany, marble and tucked leather inviting beefeaters to engage in the overtly masculine ritual of flesh searing, tearing and eating. Despite the economy, many seem to thrive—you can tell as much from the hordes of businessmen who cluster around white tablecloths, platinum cards at the ready, as they feast on juicy prime rib-eyes. And no place serves up this marbled magic better than Pappas Bros. Steakhouse, although the competition for the next great steakhouse remains fierce. Yet year after year, the Bros.' service is unsurpassed, their dry aged beef butter-tender to the knife, their wine list best of class. Little more can be expected of a steakhouse unless your need for sides is equal to your need for protein. Then it's the beefsteak tomato and onions, the shrimp remoulade and the mount of onion rings for you. And just in case that bone-in prime rib-eye weighing in at 22 ounces by some stretch of the stomach isn't enough to sate your appetite, there's a to-die-for dessert menu—the Key lime pie being a mega-must.

In August, the AllGood Café celebrated 10 years of bringing its Deep Ellum regulars the Austin dining treatment, which, as the menus proudly proclaim, thankfully comes "without having to go through Waco!" But while we sure do enjoy the Austin vibe, the collection of concert posters that cover the walls and the adorable mass of origami birds that hang from the ceiling, there's a very specific reason why we keep returning to this Main Street mainstay: The chicken-fried steak is the best in town. For just 12 bucks, the AllGood offers you a cooked-to-perfection strip steak covered with just the right amount of batter—not so much that it's overwhelming and not so little that you barely notice that it's there—and then splatters a healthy portion of white gravy on top. Oh, and the best part? You also get two sides.

This category could so easily go the frou-frou fry way, whether they be the thin crunchy matchsticks at Urbano or Toulouse, the salt & vinegar fries at Oceanaire or the chips served with malt vinegar at just about any bar with the word "tavern" in its name. But it's the good ole reliable "Jack fries" at the original Burger House—the one that since 1951 has kept frat boys belching through finance class—that we wish to celebrate. Their secret seasoning—a kinda of garlicky, peppery, salty, Greeky something—begs the fries be bought at first whiff as you enter restaurant space and place your order at the window. Their bet-you-can't-eat-just-one goodness only gets multiplied when you order a double cheeseburger that tastes of the same smells as the fries. Ketchup is a must on both.

Since opening in April, Big E's Food & Beverage has transformed itself from your average beer, toothpaste and snacks shop into a great place to grab lunch with its addition of a deli. This should ensure that the old building at the corner of Gaston Avenue and Oak Street doesn't sit vacant as it had for months following the short-lived occupancy of Discount Master Kevin's Corner. Meatball subs, Frito pies and chili dogs are just a few of the daily specials offered, and the cold sandwiches make you wonder why you've ever wasted time waiting in line at Subway. Not only is the food better than chain stores, the prices are nifty too—$4.50 for sandwiches or $6.50 with chips and a 32-ounce drink. Big E's variety of breads, meats, cheeses and veggies are enough to concoct just about anything your heart desires—even a PB&J, should the mood strike you.

The real test of a restaurant's wait staff isn't how it handles a noisy group of birthday partiers or a pompous wine connoisseur: It's Restaurant Week. Discount-driven diners and massive guest counts make Restaurant Week a nightmare for even the most disciplined restaurants, and wait staffs usually make sure customers know it. Not so at the always-elegant Al Biernat's, the storied steakhouse where servers this year performed with professionalism most eateries can't match on an average night. Our server was knowledgeable and unobtrusive, and bothered with the littlest touches, such as discreetly rattling the rocks in an emptied martini rather than barking "You done with that?" As it happens, we were done with that drink. We're not quite finished getting spoiled at Al Biernat's.

Yeah, that's right. We said Popeyes. You wants to makes something of it, swabby? Look, we know Babe's and Bubba's are good and all, but the fact is that when we want something hot, greasy and spicy (to eat, not pay-per-view), Popeyes is our chicken choice, and not because we're trashy. Or rather, we may be trashy, but Popeyes is still pretty damn good: just the right amount of crunch, a nice touch of spice, moist but no chin-scalding grease. None of the mysterious, soggy blend of herbs and spices that tastes suspiciously like a ton of salt. It's so good that it regularly makes the guilty pleasures lists of food pros, or as we reported on our food blog, "the famously fastidious restaurant critic at the San Francisco Chronicle has proudly announced his allegiance to the dish. Popeyes is so widely admired by food industry folks that it's perfectly acceptable to ask, upon hearing of a new upscale fried chicken venture, 'Yes, but is it as good as Popeyes?'" As for us—a box of Popeyes' spicy, a couple of biscuits, a little of this to drink and a little of that to smoke, and we're in bliss. We am what we am and that's all that we am.

We're certain this pick will elicit a fair amount of folks telling us that we didn't have to travel to a suburb to find top-notch pizza, and those people are right. There's plenty of it right here in Big D. But when we want the best pizza around, we know it can be found in the old shopping center just east of Central Expressway near Belt Line Road in Richardson. Make no mistake, Pizza Villa has its drawbacks: The interior shows little change from when it opened more than 40 years ago; there's little seating; it charges for drink refills; it won't accept credit cards; and there's no delivery. However, a perfectly crafted and cooked thin crust that's crispy and buttery easily makes up for any shortcomings, as does the homemade sausage and array of other fine toppings. So before crying foul on this one, give it a shot, if for no other reason than to get a glimpse into the past.

No need to wait for New Year's or spend valuable afternoons waiting outside supermarkets for the lady with the cooler. There are perfectly wonderful tamales waiting for you at the easily located Luna's Tortillas. In each of Luna's soft, hand-twisted husks, the filling is ample, the masa tender and well seasoned. Pork tamales are available every day while supplies last, while other varieties (including beef, chicken, spinach, spicy bean, cheese with jalapeño, all meats with jalapeño, and sweet) are available when ordered one day ahead. Tip: Call and ask what people haven't picked up that day, as non-pork flavors are sometimes available for the taking. Prices average about a dollar per tamale, but don't spend it all on one thing. Save some dough for the seriously piquant green salsa, the red salsa and Mexican sweet bread. Add menudo or lengua to your weekend order to use in your favorite hangover treatment.

When you tire of listening to your teenage cousin who's just discovered factory farming yammer on and on at Christmas dinner about how meat is murder (when you know he'll be best buds with Oscar Meyer again come baseball season), recharge at Kalachandji's, the East Dallas Hare Krishna palace with the best vegetarian buffet in town. Kalachandji's isn't about self-righteous posturing and tacky PETA protests. They're vegetarian because it's their freaking religion, which means they're invested in cooking up consistently delicious meat-free dishes for themselves and the steady stream of omnivores who admit that even a little nibble of lamb or chicken wouldn't improve the spicy creativity of the Krishna. In further homage to the power of the plant, Kalachandji's soothing outdoor garden could bring even the most passionate meat eater to a place of veggie-acceptance over a spoonful of saag paneer alongside the temple fountain.

By now we know this new-wave frozen yogurt is healthier for you than ice cream—low-calorie, non-fat, good for your complexion. We've heard all that before, but this new-wave yogurt explosion continues to leave a lasting mark on the face of Dallas. Beyond the novelty of the fro-yo trend, though, there's room to appreciate the yogurt ritual's finer points: a firm pour, a tart plain base, seasonal flavors and late-night Wii on a big TV. Yumilicious has it all. It's not the most efficient setup, but they trust you enough to fill your own cup, which counts for plenty these days. On a Friday night, the place could outdraw the Loon—the line stretches out the door, while 'gurters rightly labor over their choice of flavors. You've got your chocolate, your vanilla, but it's the less common tastes that stand out: avocado, taro, coconut and—God willing, come October—pumpkin.

Northeasterners, as a general rule, like to complain that there's no good pizza—and no good Italian food as a whole—to be found south or west of Pennsylvania. But while Greenville Avenue Pizza Company's pizza capably shuts the haters up, offering them delectable pies with crispy crusts and a wide array of fresh toppings, the restaurant's real treat comes with its other piece of Italian perfection. Really: You've got to try this place's meatball sub—like, yesterday. The meatballs on their own are to die for, made from a passed-down-in-the-family recipe, but when smacked within the confines of a lightly toasted roll and topped off with a healthy dose of smoky marinara sauce and gobs of melted cheese, this sucker is last-meal-on-death-row good. Your doctor probably won't recommend it, but we wholeheartedly do. And for an added artery-clogging delight, we suggest you get yours with a side of Alfredo sauce to dip it in.

As skilled as the cooks are at this pub, sometimes it's nice to just order a big, shareable platter of cheese that you can leave at the table and eat at your leisure. It's easy to customize and choices change weekly as new artisan meats and cheeses are available. The servers are knowledgeable about suggesting something to go with whatever you're drinking, and the savories come with nuts (we especially love the glazed almonds), fruits and vegetables that complement and contrast whatever cheeses you choose.

Where to begin? There is so much to love at Oceanaire, the debonair seafood restaurant that makes you feel you are eating on a 1930s luxury ocean liner in the Mediterranean at the behest of Conrad Hilton—OK, maybe his great-granddaughter Paris. Take the crab cakes, for example—no heavily breaded microscopic crab meat these, but chunks so large you can almost make out the outline of the crab. The seafood hails from every port imaginable; the raw oyster selection alone contains 12 different seafaring mollusks, from such faraway places as Prince Edward Island; Wallace Bay, Nova Scotia; and Taunton Bay, Maine. Yet Oceanaire wouldn't dream of forsaking localism. Its black and blue Texas redfish is a regional favorite. And don't get us started on the matchstick fries or the fried calamari or the iceberg lettuce wedge and clam chowder soup, for starters, which is probably where we should have begun in the first place. We should also have mentioned the fact that the national chain has filed for bankruptcy in Dallas federal court. We can only hope, as has been stated in press releases, that the Galleria location will remain open and viable.

Barbecue joints aren't frequently known for their cocktail prowess, but pseudo-posh meat-house Smoke isn't exactly your typical barbecue joint, anyway. Yeah, they serve cold draft beer and potato salad, but alongside their unrivaled brunch offerings, the Oak Cliff hilltop restaurant serves the finest Bloody Mary in Dallas, possibly in the entire land. Thick and tomatoey, Smoke's homemade Bloody Mary mixer soothes a hungover stomach while more substantial sustenance is on the way, though spears of bread-and-butter pickles, in-house pickled carrots, green beans and jalapeños turn a good drink into a salad in a glass. The seasoned-salted rim spices up each sip, right down to the last—at which point the only polite thing to do for your accommodating stomach is to order up one more.

When you consider "home-style" food, it can be blue-plate or family-style, but something about it has to place you back in Mom's/Granny's kitchen (not the other rooms where there were creepy paintings and random chores to be done), strategizing how best to eat another roll, another spoonful of starchy side and still have room for pie. Norma's has been around since 1956, and the recipes taste as though they haven't much changed. The open-faced roast beef sandwich is slow-cooked like it would be at home on an old Hotpoint and the meatloaf is made with an original tomato sauce that, as a child, you probably wished they'd bottle and sell instead of ketchup. Value a good turnip green or pinto bean just as much as a mashed potato? So does Norma's. Now, as far as desserts, there is really nothing that Norma's makes that isn't incredibly familiar—in a good way. "Mile High" cream pies, fruit pies, cobblers and cakes all exceed expectations in size and that throwback flavor. You wouldn't necessarily want to go home again, but you definitely want to go to Norma's

Sure, people usually go to this Deep Ellum spot to chow down on the chicken-fried steak and jam out to some local music, but what about the grilled cheese? The magical concoction of cheddar and pepperjack cheeses, green chiles, roma tomatoes and chipotle mayonnaise served on sourdough bread should really receive some recognition. This ain't your momma's grilled cheese served with a can of tomato soup either, folks. AllGood serves the lunch-only dish with a side of Auntie Grace's coleslaw, tortilla chips and house salsa all for $6.99. Considering AllGood recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, we think they know what they're doing when it comes to pleasing patrons and their bellies.

It's really hard to single out one Dallas taqueria as the best, 'cause they all have their strengths (and weaknesses). For example, Fuel City's picadillo tacos are still some of the best in town, but their other varieties, not so much. When it comes to La Paisanita's tacos, we can't speak for anything except the al pastor, because that's all we got on our first visit, and all we've been able to bring ourselves to order on subsequent visits. Not because their other tacos don't look good, mind you, but because the al pastor tacos are just that addictive, dripping with spicy red juices and stuffed into small, oiled tortillas that crisp up ever so slightly on the tiny shack's griddle. La Paisanita tacos come with lemon instead of the customary lime, which seems strange at first, but just go with it. Washed down with a tall Mexican Coke, there's not a better taco in the city.

Neighborhood Services Tavern has a good thing going with New York import and general manager Jason Kosmas. He knows cocktails—from muddling to infusions, from classics to innovative recipes. In a restaurant where the food is notoriously top-notch, drinks should be just as good. Seems like common sense, but it's not often accomplished as deftly as by Kosmas' hand. The Domino Fizz is a perfect example. Essentially, the cocktail is just a Tom Collins with sprigs of lavender, but the difference is in the details. The recently re-released Old Tom gin, specifically, is used for its smooth, sweet flavor. Fresh lavender isn't muddled or torn, it's simply shaken with the other ingredients and topped with soda in order to preserve its integrity and keep the flavor subtle, aromatic but not perfume-y. The care and thought are evident and the result is easily one of the most refreshing, crave-able summer drinks we've had. And we've been drinking in Dallas a long while.

Let's be absolutely clear on this point: Do not touch the sizzling clay pot of curry at Mai's. Yes, it is as hot as it looks. Here's a clue: Your food is still bubbling 10 minutes after it landed on your table. Rice stuck to the bottom of the pot melds into a blackened cake with a satisfying crunch. It's just one of the standout dishes at this unassuming house on Bryan Street. Some swear by the northern suburbs' pho shops, where the mood lighting is fluorescent, and "branching out" looks like ordering the same old soup, but with beef tripe. For its dark, cozy atmosphere and a menu that rewards repeat visits, Mai's wins.

Named for Vicky Zamora, who runs the two-woman operation with the help of her cousin Lupana, La Victoria just celebrated its fifth anniversary. A popular spot for Baylor folks on break, the little restaurant is only open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Expect a crowd on a Saturday morning, but the wait is worth it for the amazing breakfast burritos. The burritos are $2.25 for a 10-inch tortilla stuffed with eggs and your choice of bacon, ham, potato, beans, sausage or chorizo. It's only 25 cents apiece to add extras like cheese, sour cream, pico de gallo, fresh avocados or roasted poblanos (highly recommended). Vicky says up to seven ingredients can fit safely into the 10-inch standard tortillas, but for those of you who wake up with a hole in your stomach, there's always the massive $4.50 Super Breakfast Burrito, which is rolled up in a 15-inch tortilla. While you're there for breakfast, pick up some gorditas and tamales. At La Victoria, both are made from scratch.

Surely you've noticed that there has been a veritable explosion of boutique yogurt shops in this city. They have landed here from New York and California and points in between and go by names such as Pinkberry, Yogilicious, Orange Cup, I Heart Yogurt and Red Mango. They are self-serve or counter serve, offering exotic flavors and fresh fruit and decadent toppings too numerous to mention. They tout probiotics and no fat and no sugar added—a way to eat yourself to better health through more dessert. Yet among all the new and the hype, there remains that little shop on the corner (Mockingbird and Abrams) and it's known by the odd acronym TCBY (The Country's Best Yogurt). Yes, it may be your dad's yogurt shop, but it has great service and maintains long hours and a drive-thru window and picnic tables, and reasonable prices and damn good yogurt, which you can still frou-frou up if you're inclined. For those favoring good taste over active cultures, it's worth going retro and returning to the Country's Best.

It's rare that a meatball not of the Italian or Swedish persuasion would rise to the level of a "best" anything, particularly a meatball not swimming in sauce, be it spicy or sweet. But Neighborhood Services defies convention and meatball mentality and brings you its BBQ Spiced Nimon Ranch Brisket Meatballs with crumbled Point Reyes blue cheese. The presentation is simple enough. Seven beefy balls, lined up like soldiers, one following the next, each pierced by a wooden pick to make for ease of eating. Nothing fancy here, other than the blue cheese addition, a great taste enhancer. It's a bit steep at 10 bucks—that's $1.43 a ball—but don't think for a minute that it's anything more than an appetizer. And yet it's a damn fine one at that. Quality adds value to them there balls.

If you haven't heard of Hypnotic Donuts, we don't blame you. There's no sign at the storefront it shares with The Pizza Guy in far North Dallas, and it operates from only 7 to 10 a.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Heck, even when you find it and it's open, Hypnotic can be frustrating, as it only accepts cash, and owner James St. Peter prepares the doughnuts while you wait. But we knew this upstart was on to something when we heard St. Peter was making doughnuts with bacon and jalapeños, and we soon realized he offered the best-tasting doughnuts we've found, highlighted by an imaginative menu that includes The Hypnotic (featuring crushed Cap'n Crunch Peanut Butter Crunch cereal and pretzels), Lucy in the Sky with Lemons (topped with Lemon Heads candy) and Special High in the Mountains (chilled to 40 degrees with fresh strawberries).

La Duni’s Taco and Duni Borga love their work and work at their love. By Hanna Raskin • PHOTO BY MARK GRAHAM

Espartaco and Duni Borga know they’re not at their cutest when they’re working.

But when the pair travels and leaves behind all the stresses that come with running four (soon to be five) locations of their uber-popular Latin restaurant and bakery, they’re downright adorable.

“When we get away, we get away as lovers,” explains Duni, who met Espartaco (he goes by “Taco”) more than two decades ago.

Both Taco and Duni say their partnership hasn’t always been easy and continues to tax their staffers, who aren’t always sure which Borga is in charge. When married entrepreneurs ask Taco for advice on how to negotiate the sticky topic of working with one’s spouse, “The first thing I tell them is, ‘If you can deal with the darkest part of your relationship on a daily basis, you might have a chance,’” he says. “The restaurant business is so difficult...You have to be patient.” Patient with the pace of restaurant success and patient with each other. Taco, 47, and Duni—who wouldn’t provide her age, though Taco says she’s “much younger” than him—first met in Los Angeles in the 1980s. Taco owned a club, and the perks that came with knowing a nightclub insider appealed to Duni, a native of Bogota, Colombia, who was anxious to get a foothold in the L.A. scene. The two soon began dating. “Then, one day, he looks at me and goes, ‘I’m moving to Dallas,’” Duni remembers. “There’s no beach, no nothing, no way.”

The couple stayed in constant telephone contact, but didn’t reunite until Taco tracked her down at a cousin’s house, delivering an impassioned speech worthy of a Hollywood romance.

“He looked at me and said ‘I have nothing to offer you, but let’s work together on a future,’” Duni says. She drove back to Dallas with him to help open Zuzu Handmade Mexican Food in 1989, a phenomenally popular Mexican chain, with which he would remain until Arby’s bought it.

The two stayed together until Duni relocated to New York, where she spent four years working in restaurants and baking as a hobby, before Taco summoned her to France.

“I was opening ZuZu in Paris and I invited her to come with me,” Taco says. “She’d never been to Paris. We fell in love again there.” Duni returned to Dallas in 1996 to rejoin Taco. She began studying child psychology, a discipline Taco respected but firmly believed was a bad fit for the woman he’d marry three years later. Recalls Taco, “I remembered she really liked baking in New York. I said, ‘Why don’t you take a one-day cake decorating class?’ She loved it so much.”

Rather than continue with her child psychology studies at UT-Dallas, she enrolled in a pastry course at El Centro. She remembers being terribly intimidated on the first day, surrounded by professional bakers clad in chef coats. But the more rosettes she formed and cake layers she frosted, the more she felt she belonged. “And of course, every day, she would bring home something delicious,” Taco says. “It was unbelievable. She was just in heaven.”

Duni soon asked Taco to help her open a bakery. He responded by whisking her off to Europe, where they visited all of the continent’s best pastry houses—including Laduree, which provided inspiration for the new restaurant’s name.

Taco was visiting family in his native Spain in 2001 when Duni learned they’d finally secured a location on McKinney Avenue.

“She calls and tells me she has two pieces of news for me,” Taco says. “We got the McKinney location and the second piece of news is, she’s pregnant. So I have to run to Dallas.” Realizing the McKinney space was far too big to support with coffee and cake, Taco insisted on adding five savory dishes to the bakery’s opening menu: pollo aljibe, Cuban pork, pollo menta salad, tomato hearts of palm salad and carne asada. “They are still amongst the best sellers,” Taco says. La Duni was soon a full-service operation, and was singled out by The Dallas Morning News in 2001 as the year’s best new restaurant. Then Esquire praised the eatery in a rave that helped Duni land a three-day gig at the French Culinary Institute in New York City. When a representative greeted them at the airport, Taco recalls, his sign read “Welcome Duni.” Taco, who’s always handled the restaurant end of the business, suddenly realized his wife was responsible for much of La Duni’s overnight success.

Despite being big proponents of patience, Taco would rather speak frankly, Duni preferring instead to skip the talk and just charge ahead. Both admit, though, that they argue, especially when they’re developing a new product. Taco says Duni doesn’t like the monotony of making and remaking a recipe: La Duni’s famous cuatro leches cake, for example, went through 30 iterations before Taco felt it was ready for sale.

“I can never say what I’m thinking because what she’s saying when she asks me if I like it is, ‘Don’t you think this is perfect and love it, as is?,’” Taco says. “I have to take the temperature and see how the moon is and then maybe I have the right answer.” And yet the couple says they’ve figured out how to weather their dust-ups. “We’ve made a choice of never going to bed angry,” Duni says. “There’s nothing worse than feeling a cold bed.”

When thinking of a business lunch or a special-occasion restaurant, Charlie Palmer at the Joule, located in a downtown luxury hotel, rises far above the rest. Charlie Palmer offers courses throughout the day, including a hearty breakfast or brunch, and offers a prixe fix lunch option with several choices on a special three-course menu. But the true gem of Charlie Palmer is its attentive detail to quality at dinner, at which each guest is considered honored and the service reflects this philosophy. You will certainly find all the trappings of one of the best restaurants in Dallas in its house-cured charcuterie, its rabbit saltimbocca, Scottish salmon or the branzino, a delicious European sea bass. There are no wrong choices at our favorite fancy restaurant.

If you haven't noticed, Dallas Observer's food blog, City of Ate, has a whole feature dedicated to food delivery service called How 'Bout Them Knockers. So we know Dallas food delivery drivers well. Usually when we order takeout, it's because we want to pretend we're suffering from agoraphobia, but when Kevin from Sol's Taco Lounge delivers our food, we have no problem walking outside to greet him. Hell, we even let our nachos get cold one time while having a conversation with him about the weather. And if he's lost or running behind, he'll call and let you know. Believe it or not, not every delivery driver does that. We speak from experience. Kevin is also the friendly and patient voice on the phone when you call to place your order. So, you can expect great service from Sol's when Kevin is involved, from the second you pick up the phone until the moment your food arrives at your doorstep.

What with the cute poolside girls, cold Mexican sodas, beer and excellent taquería, it's easy to forget that Fuel City is also a gas station. Most of the tacos are very good, but the standout is the picadillo. Made with beef and tiny cubes of potato and seasoned to salty, greasy perfection, it's heaven on a tortilla. Make that heaven on two tortillas, actually, if you go with the corn instead of the gringo-preferred flour. Say yes to the free optional diced onions and cilantro to really set it off, and be sure to add plenty of the fiery house-made green salsa and a squeeze of lime to counterbalance the heat.

We all know high school kids and grandparents who check Facebook obsessively for FarmVille updates. Why do we do it daily at about 10:30 a.m.? Because we're desperate to see the posted menu photo and find out what Good 2 Go Taco is serving for lunch. The gourmet taco counter, nestled inside The Green Spot and featured on Food Network's The Best Thing I Ever Ate, offers daily specials that generally fall into, but aren't limited to, the categories of cow, bird, pig and veggie. Proprietors Jeana Johnson and Colleen O'Hare have painstakingly crafted locally focused tacos worth a wait spanning anywhere from five to 30 minutes depending on the time and day. Favorites include Puerco Fresco (pulled pork, mango salsa), School Daze (Sriracha meatloaf, mashed potatoes, cheddar), Hotlanta (waffle-battered chicken, sweet potato, honey butter), and Beets Me (golden and red beets, spinach, barley, bleu cheese vinaigrette). But a warning: Don't dilly-dally; because when they're gone, they're gone.

Like the bowling alley in the old NBC series Ed, this Lakewood institution started as a front operation for attorney David Musselwhite's law shop. He and his practice skedaddled years ago, but the coffee shop remains. If you can make it past the trays of muffin tops, it's home to some of the best pancakes in town—sweet and buttery, an oatmeal flapjack that's not too heavy. It's all you'd need if you had exactly one hour to right the world's injustices, and the rest of the day to nap: two eggs for strength, and one giant Cory Cake topped with fruit and granola. No coddling servers here catering to your every pancake whim. It's better than that: There's Aunt Jemima syrup at the tables.

The Pearl Cup Espresso Bar opened its doors on Valentine's Day 2009, and thanks to the coffeehouse's prime Henderson Avenue location, warm décor and popular specialty coffee drinks like the rich and delicious secret-recipe Pearl Latte, the coffeehouse very quickly made its way deep into the caffeine-addicted hearts of a diverse cross-section of Dallas. With plenty of seating inside and two patios outside, the spot is a great place to meet up with old friends or make a few new ones–especially at the communal tables where most days you'll find urban professionals, students and hipsters packed in elbow-to-elbow. Like a pub with a great draft selection, The Pearl Cup always has three espressos on tap (most coffee shops only offer one), and for drip coffee there's always The Pearl Cup Blend roasted by Dallas' own Eiland Coffee Roaster. But what really sets The Pearl Cup apart from other coffeehouses is its wide assortment of snacking options, including pastries from several local bakeries.

Established in 1982, a mainstay of the northern corridor Chinese commercial district, First Chinese B-B-Q is the place to go for traditional Chinese cuisine. Don't miss the flat noodles that arrive at the table with enormous slices of tender beef or the wonderful wonton. But the real reason to visit the First Chinese BBQ is the meat, the meat, the meat. And the sauce. The pork is maybe the best of the lot, with the perfect combination of chew and give. The sauce that drips off is so sweet it could be an ice cream topping. First Chinese also offers a full list of seafood dinners including Hong Kong style crab, lobster yee-mein noodles and spicy seafood combination. One little wrinkle, though: Don't forget to bring cash. They don't take plastic.

Though the neighborhood is still marginal—bars on windows—the restaurant is anything but. This nine-table, reservation-necessary, hot-house-in-summer Italian restaurant offers little in the traditional Little Italy sense. Rather, you can get intricately sauced and locally seasoned gourmet dishes such as the signature spaghetti Bolognese and delicate appetizers such as prosciutto-wrapped fig bruschetta with Texas honeycomb. Lunch is still a deal—the tasty paninis and matchstick fries, a nostalgic residue of Urbano's first incarnation on McKinney Avenue. It doesn't hurt matters that Jimmy's Food Store, a popular purveyor of imported Italian meats and treats, is right next store. The Urbano owner's in-your-face affability creates an intimacy for some, a hardship for those waiting for the tables to be turned. No matter, when your turn comes, it's worth the wait, but make sure to bring your own booze, because that's just the kind of place Urbano is.

Normally, a big part of why we're out to eat in the first place is that we want someone else to do the work, but Tei Tei's beef on the rock is a do-it-yourself experience that can't be beat. Tei Tei provides six strips of Washu beef—a crossbreed of Black Angus and native Japanese Wagyu—and a ginger soy marinade. You're charged with cooking them over hot rocks to your own specifications, but you'll be glad you're in control because with beef this thin and flavorful, you want to get it just right to maximize the velvety goodness. Need something to munch on while doing all the work? Order some sushi—perhaps the city's best—and thank us later.