Pitmaster Doug Pickering’s fatty brisket is soft and tender and melts in the mouth like meat candy; the bark, at times crispy, retains only a subtle whiff of smoke. The pulled pork, slathered in a sweet-spicy sauce, is fine. The ribs have a sweet brown sugar glaze that will win them many fans.
Among the sides, the fried okra is fantastic, battered like good old-style onion rings, the okra tender and salty. Things only turn south at the bottom of the basket, where the last few bites sit in a pool of oil. There’s a spicy cup of baked beans and good potato salad loaded with corn, scallions and poblano peppers, but the best thing here is the green beans, which are smoked like the meats. The beans pack a huge punch of smoke flavor in addition to bacon crumbles and onions.