Yao Fuzi serves a well-tempered genus of Shanghainese, the distinctive sustenance of Shanghai. It's suffused with slivers of Mandarin and even Japanese to help keep it aloft in the flow of the mainstream. And it is without a doubt one of the most rewarding Chinese dining experiences in North Texas. You can savor fried calamari in curry dust, spicy tuna summer rolls, pan-fried duck in Mandarin sauce, and sweet and sour chicken. Or you can shuck your timidity and drill deeply into authenticity: duck gizzard, beef tripe and cilantro, jellyfish sliced from the head (can a beast without a brain be said to have a head?) and blanched and served with scallions and daikon radish. There is even kimchi, the sublime Korean cabbage and vegetable fermentation. Any of these chosen paths leads to serenity. There is a recurrent invocation of Shanghainese; subtle in heat, lithe in weight, elegant in composition. All in Plano.
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Wednesday, December 23, 2015 at 2:16 p.m. by foodbitch
Growing up as a Jewish person in Dallas, Christmas and/or Christmas Eve went something like this: Dad made a reservation at May Dragon, we’d attempt to have a festive meal at the extremely overcrowded restaurant, surrounded by every...
Chinese cuisine, with rare exceptions, is a mongrel of conformity in these parts: a risk-averse version of the intensely risky food. It's transmogrified, morphed, tamed and sanitized, made pliant and meek. Sometimes you can barely r...
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