As Essence Fest first-timers, we stayed at The Troubadour, a boutique hotel in downtown New Orleans with Southern charm and a musical motif fitting for the occasion. Though the restaurant and bar were closed during our time here, the convenient location put us within walking distance of diverse restaurants, tourist hotspots and the festival locations: The Ernest N. Morial Convention Center (1.3 miles away) and Caesars Superdome (0.5 miles away). Skipping on ride-share in these traffic-heavy areas was a win. Pro-tip: Pack a sturdy pair of walking sneakers or two with insoles for maximum comfort.
We spent our days at the Convention Center, bouncing between panels and live performances celebrating Black artistry and identity. Black-owned brands and businesses occupied every corner of the venue dedicated to beauty, health and wellness, entertainment and commerce.
With credentials that were approved days before our flight (and upgraded hours before the second night of shows), here are the pros and cons of a last-minute rendezvous in NOLA.
Pro: Free events to keep you booked and busy
Arriving in NOLA a day before the festivities, we took advantage of the opportunity to watch free hoops at Xavier University for the Essence Fest edition of Battle of Jollof vs. Jambalaya basketball game on Thursday (July 3). In between bites of lip-smacking jollof rice and fried sweet plantains courtesy of Dakar Nola and jambalaya and other N'awlins delights from Southern Girl Creole Cafe, the action and star power on the court made this culinary-meets-sports showdown a treat. New Orleans rapper Juvenile delivered a family-friendly halftime show, performing "Slow Motion" and "Back That Azz Up." Hometown hero Master P led Team Jambalaya to a hard-earned victory. The weekend marked the hip-hop mogul né Percy Miller's pivot from rap king to basketball president of operations at the University of New Orleans. Also spotted: broadcaster Ros Gold-Unwude co-hosting the event, actor/model Rome Flynn playing for Team Jambalaya, artists Jidenna (sporting an athleisure version of his signature suit and tie ensemble) and New Orleans repper Curren$y, sitting court-side.
When a printing issue caused a delay in credential pickups, we discovered that the cultural experiences at the Convention Center were free for all guests. Once inside, you could grab giveaways from sponsors (swag of note: Minnie Mouse ears, which typically retail at $34.99 at the Disney store and theme parks, and another was a reward for entering a raffle for a Disney cruise trip). We attended themed discussions and mini-concerts. We caught a crowd-pleasing performance from R&B star Leon Thomas, best known for his hit "Mutt," at the AT&T stage on Friday. Even if you skip out on the concerts at night, a weekend's worth of activities awaits at the Convention Center that cost you nothing.
Con: Long lines for freebies
Be prepared to stand in line for gifts from popular brands, especially if you attend Beautycon. (Some festival-goers purchase the $150 Beautycon VIP ticket to avoid the queues.) Our recommendation: Head in early while crowds are light and save the cash to support community efforts or forward it to the food budget.
Con: Limited ticket availability
If you are not a working member of the press or an overeager planner who likes to RSVP to events way in advance, you may not be able to score a ticket to a free event if it is considered sold out. For the Battle of Jollof vs. Jambalaya hoop exhibition, we were able to grab tickets on the Essence 360 app about two hours before the game, which was "sold out" by the time we arrived, though there were plenty of seats available during the event. Alternative: Show up anyway, in case walk-ins are an option. Remember to adhere to the clear bag policy, too. We saw patrons turned away from the game for having totes and water bottles in tow.
Pro: Flavorful food options to satisfy the palate at Essence Fest and beyond
The Convention Center hosted a variety of Black-owned restaurants, highlighting fried seafood and poultry dishes in the form of po' boys, tacos and platters with rice or fries. There were also vegan options. For N'awlins newbies or more adventurous foodies, we recommend a pitstop at the original Cafe Du Monde on Decatur Street for fluffy, powdery beignets and café au lait. Seeking lunch or early dinner fare? Slurp up gumbo and chomp on fish sticks at Peche in downtown NOLA; grab a 10-inch shrimp po' boy at Parasol's dressed up (with mayo, lettuce, and tomato); or devour a dozen chargrilled oysters at the beloved Acme Oyster House — there will be a line — in the French Quarter. Daisy Duke's also offers a banger of a brunch: Shrimp and grits with cheese, onions and peppers, with a side of beignets, is the perfect way to start the day. If making the trek to any of these spots, always come hungry, so you can leave happy.
The Dream Mentors panel discusses legacy, creativity and vision, moderated by award-winning journalist Gia Peppers.
Getty Images for Essence
Pro: Abundance of inspiration and knowledge to absorb
There is plenty to meditate on during the daytime talks at the Convention Center. We listened in on AT&T's Dream Mentors: The Blueprint panel, moderated by journalist Gia Peppers on Friday (July 4). There were plenty of mic-drop moments on finding mentors and navigating creative burnout thanks to panelists, actor/producer/host Crystal Renee, photographer/creative strategist Saeed Ferguson, actor/model Kofi Siriboe and rap icon/burger businessman Bun B. Surprising fact: The Port Arthur native revealed this was his first Essence Fest appearance, though he preached like he was pivoting into pastoral ministry."The first true piece of advice I got from Too $hort [was] 'Don't stop rapping.' As I got older, I started to understand that 'don't stop rapping' means don't stop dreaming ... Don't ever stop working on your goal. Don't ever think that you've made it far enough. Always strive for more." - Bun B
Pro: Essence Fest has long been synonymous with star power for its nighttime concert series
While we only received tickets for Nights 2 and 3, the first night was reserved for the young and young-at-heart with performances from R&B darlings Coco Jones and Lucky Daye and party-starting rapper, GloRilla. Night owls with a deep love for grown-folks music also enjoyed the sounds of Maxwell, Babyface, Ron and The Isley Brothers — and if you stayed awake at the Superdome in the wee hours of the morning, Lauryn Hill, who stepped on stage after 2:30 a.m. and didn't finish until around 3:30 a.m. The festival defended her arrival time and took the blame for the delay on Instagram. The following nights blended vivid nostalgia with Black excellence across genres — and the diaspora. Night 2 included sets from R&B smooth-talker Donell Jones and Jamaican dancehall and reggae star Buju Banton and Philadelphia songbird Jill Scott alongside vocal powerhouses Jazmine Sullivan and Patti LaBelle. The closer included a 30th-anniversary celebration of the beloved film Waiting to Exhale, a Quincy Jones tribute led by Jermaine Dupri starring cameos from MC Lyte, Xscape, LL Cool J, Al B. Sure, Robin Thicke and Tyrese, plus performances from hip-hop kings Master P, Nas and R&B legends Boyz II Men. Hats off to Dallas' own Erykah Badu for blessing the Superdome with her aura and greatest hits on the second night. She floated on favorites like "On & On," "Window Seat" "Love of My Life," a "fast as fuck" rendition of "Tyrone" and "Didn't Cha Know." The ethereal songstress even showed love to the ASL interpreter, who incorporated dance moves into her sign language. Badu also sprinkled in jokes: "I got 26 more dollars' worth of music to do." During the finale, Badu halted the performance for a surreal moment: "This is the first time in the history of singing this song that a woman has come up to the stage and put her purse on the stage and start looking for her keys." Always one to keep it real, Badu flipped a finger while flawlessly belting the last notes of her set.
Verdict: Is it worth it?
Essence Fest is a must for music lovers, community organizers and connection seekers. While this year's festivities drew criticism from NOLA natives and recurring attendees, events of this scale focused on Black greatness are crucial fixtures in the culture. As the nation grapples with political turmoil and social unrest online and off, this festival provides safe spaces for people, especially Black men and women, to embrace their identity and find an opportunity to thrive. Like Badu sings, we all just want a chance to fly and a chance to cry, especially in these chaotic and uncertain times. That's worth it alone.See more photos from the weekend below:
