Bellini's Old School Italian Vibe Thrives Decades On

Bellini's arrived on the Dallas dining scene in 2002 on Oak Lawn Avenue, where it thrived for 18 years. The space closed in 2020 after the landlord sold the property. For almost two years, owner Lorenzo di Lorenzo pondered his next move, which almost involved moving back to New York City during the pandemic.
Fortunately for everyone in Dallas who finds solace in a bowl of pasta, he found a new home for his restaurant in the Design District on Riverfront Boulevard. In a city where everything changes, especially the dining scene, it's nice when something original holds steady.

The atmosphere at the newer place embodies the spirit of its proprietor, who is as passionate about his Italian restaurant as the four cherubs afloat over the dining room imply. Lorenzo says he's had the same kitchen staff working for him since the early days at the original location. The decor and vibe of Bellini's has been with him that long as well. From top to bottom, the restaurant is drenched (maybe waterboarded) with Italian elegance. A flock of chandeliers hangs over the dining room, and large ornate vases with flowers are many, as are elaborate columns and drapes. Wistful photos of Italy cover the walls and windows. And, yes, a painting of four cherubs is suspended over the dining room.

Mostly what you'll notice, however, are the dishes placed on the white tablecloths in front of you. For all of its grandeur and ostentatiousness, Bellini's dishes are classic Italian comfort food.

Lunch or dinner always starts with a complimentary slab of freshly baked bread, with a plate of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The menu has plenty of pasta, but the Chilean sea bass and crab cakes are some of the popular dishes, along with many Italian staples like ravioli and pizza.

Service is reminiscent of old-school Italian spots, more polished than one might expect.
After our bread, which we tried to only nibble at to save room for the bigger dishes, our server recommended the fried mozzarella ($8.95), which was indulgent and lovely. A crisp and well-seasoned crust gave way to big cheese pulls. Served with a side of marinara and ranch, these also had to be pushed aside after just one for fear of ruining the main meal. They held up as good leftovers later, however (just a few minutes in an air fryer).

A shrimp scampi ($18.95) with five large shrimp tossed with fresh vegetables in a white sauce was light and bright. Don't let the photo at the top fool you — this is a rather large serving in a large bowl, with plenty left over for later.
We also ordered lasagna ($18.95) at lunch and it came in a deconstructed form with wide strands of noodles bathed in a rich meat sauce and layers of creamy ricotta buried underneath. We ate all of this. No leftovers, even though it, too, was a rather large serving.

Bellini's has live music every night of the week except Monday.

Bellini's Italian Cafe and Pizza, 921 N. Riverfront Blvd.