Good to Go is a column where our food writers explore Dallas' restaurant scene through takeout orders, delivery boxes and reheated leftovers.
We all know Revolver Taco Lounge has some of the best tacos in town.
I'm not into over-hyping the already hyped, but with all that's going on right now, any moment of happiness is appreciated — nah, eagerly sought — these days.
And one of those moments came while I was sitting at a table on Main Street in Deep Ellum. A makeshift patio has taken over an area adjacent to the curb in front of Revolver (where parking wasn't previously available anyway) to allow two picnic tables, which are spaced very well apart from each other.
So today's Good to Go feature is good to go from the order window to a few steps away to the street.
Though I can say that during the coronavirus pandemic, it's also been good to go when driving 20 minutes to drop tacos at a friend's house, devouring while standing on the sidewalk or having it as a lunch while sitting in a parked car in as rain drenches Dallas.
A few weeks ago, a visit to Revolver came after a mid-morning nap (something that could only happen in COVID Times). Dream about prepping octopus on the line? Wake up wanting the pulpo taco from Revolver ($6). Mediterranean octopus is perfectly tender and complemented by crisp fried leek and a gentle jalapeño salsa.
That day, it was fine paired with the calabacita taco ($3.75). The intention was to drive home, but the pouring rain and the thought of letting the tortillas sit in a steamy container resulted in another meal from the dashboard, which was more than fine.
A better situation is getting the perfect trinity of tacos from Revolver and sitting at the new outdoor seating in the sun on a not-blisteringly hot day.
It's a simple setup with white-painted wood making a partial perimeter with spray-painted words all over it and the two picnic tables. One table sits in the basking sun, the other one, worthy of coveting, is placed perfectly under a nearby tree.
Pair your pulpo taco with langosta ($12) and pato tacos ($7.50). Here's where we pause for some people to rejoice about lobster and duck while others complain about the prices. They're quality tacos with expertly prepared ingredients, and that's all the time we'll give on that topic.
Succulent garlic-butter sauteed lobster is paired with a barely sweet pineapple pico de gallo, arugula and a balanced salsa verde. The flavors combine well together: Let the salsa drip from your hand to the Styrofoam container below. You’re outside. It's OK to be messy, and every bite has the just-right combination of flavor.
On to that pato: There is not enough duck served in Dallas. Bring on the duck. Move aside chicken every once in a while, please. And while you're at it, cook it properly like those at Revolver do.
Have this taco, and 24 hours later, when you're eating some other meal, you'll think back to this one with perfectly seared duck breast, caramelized onions, roasted poblano and salsa, and wonder why you're not getting to eat that every day.
Each of these is filled with plenty of meat, and three may be a lot — for your capacity or your wallet. But the thing is, once you have all three, you realize you can't possibly choose just two out of the trio.
And then there's the go-to carne asada ($4.25) or the squash we still love — you know, to occasionally consume vegetables.
Guess we'll have to start going to Revolver twice a week now.
Revolver Taco Lounge, 2701 Main St., Suite 120 (Deep Ellum). Open for takeout through the exterior window 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. 214-272-7163. Delivery is available through DoorDash.
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