Revolver has recently expanded its menu to embrace the weekend brunch bunch, and to say we were excited would be an understatement. Deep Ellum can be difficult to navigate with the limited parking on the weekends, so we decided to arrive an hour before brunch even started at 11 a.m.
There are two separate endeavors at Revolver. Most people are familiar with the smaller taco shop with the street-side window, but if you travel west down Main Street you find an alleyway that houses huge garage-style doors. This is the entrance to Revolver Gastro Cantina's brunch. The alleyway was a bit perplexing because there was all kinds of equipment set up like an obstacle course, but you should be able to find the entrance.
The Gastro Cantina is a vibrant space. There's a massive ofrenda (offering altar) filled with food, drinks and images of people one can only assume are relatives who have passed on. The spectacle of colors and floor-to-ceiling luscious plants is, in all sincerity of an overused term, “A Whole Vibe."
There are a few round picnic-style tables in the alleyway area; otherwise, it's bar seats inside. As mentioned, we got there early; evidently, we weren’t the only ones with that idea. Brunch is set up like a buffet line at Luby’s. While waiting, we investigated what exactly was bubbling and churning in those huge metal cauldrons.
The buffet starts with freshly made tortillas. A huge line was forming, so we decided to just fill our plates with minimum questions and grab all the food that looked delicious, knowing we could always circle back.
As trick-or-treaters will do, we all gathered at the table to see what we had scored. We had rice and beans, costillas en chile de arbol tatemado (ribs in roasted chile de arbol sauce), guisado de huevos con chorizo (eggs with chorizo) and more.
Everything was flavorful and filling, but the unexpected knockout punch was the papas pollo poblano. It was absolutely one of the highlights on the table and can best be described as a Tuscan soup riddled with hearty potatoes and spicy fragrant poblano peppers. It was a meal in itself.
Our table favorite was the ceviche de huachinango, prepared with red snapper, tomato, onion, jalapeño and a dash of lime. It’s a light, refreshing and mild dish that doesn’t leave you feeling heavy and lethargic.
That is helpful because while we incessantly stuffed our faces, on the other side of the glass garage door entrance was a hardcore cross-fit class. It wasn't clear whether this was a permanent arrangement with the space provided between the businesses.@emayne360 When it comes to Sunday Funday, which one are you? Choose Wisely! #sundayfunday #deepellum @revolvertaco @f45_training #tacos @lazyjedi68 ♬ Just Wanna Rock - Lil Uzi Vert
There are a few items that are definitely worth trying if you can make the room. Guisado gobernadora de langosta y camaron (lobster and shrimp) ($20) and, for those who like old-school Mexican hangover cures, there's menudo. Plus mole Michocano is something you absolutely do not find on other brunch menus.
Brunch is $35 per person and $15 for kids. There's a full bar, but drinks are not included with brunch.
Revolver Taco Lounge Gastro Cantina, 2646 Elm St. (Deep Ellum). 11 a.m. – 11 p.m. Monday – Thursday; 11 a.m. – 1:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday.
