“I do love all of the food options here,” she wrote. “But, I wish it would be taken to the next level. We should be more competitive.”
Sorry to disappoint, my friend. There’s always next year.
Once again, Dallas’ five JBFA finalists came away empty handed during Monday’s awards ceremony in Chicago. The finalists were RJ Yoakum for Emerging Chef, Mabo for Best New Restaurant, Bar Collette for Best New Bar, Starship Bagel for Outstanding Bakery and Regino Rojas for Best Chef in Texas.
Of course, most, if not all nominees will come away grateful just to be in the discussion among the most talented culinary names in the country. As D Magazine’s food critic (and previous Beard Foundation judge) Brian Reinhart opined earlier this year, the semifinalists are truly the most noteworthy, because they’ve been singled out by local judges who have a solid grasp of what’s happening in our food scene.
“Once national Beard judges start voting on finalists, including regions they may have visited as a tourist for a day or two, all that planning goes out the window,” Reinhart writes.
So we're left to frame this most recent loss as a win, especially with five chefs and restaurants getting to the finals. (Is this how the die-hard Cowboys fans feel?) As much as we all lament the fact that Dallas didn’t win anything major (the last local award winner was Dean Fearing in 1994, also Cowboys' heyday), we can’t gloss over just how monumental the recognition that one of our own did win.
Chad Houser of Cafe Momentum was previously announced as this year’s winner of the James Beard Humanitarian Of The Year Award. Ten years ago, Houser started Cafe Momentum as a vehicle to help youths in the juvenile justice system create a path to a better life through work experience and life skills in the hospitality industry. Over the last decade, more than 1,200 young men and women have participated in Cafe Momentum's programs.
Over 1200 young people have participated in Cafe Momentum's programs to help troubled youth find a path forward.
Kathy Tran
“It’s quite emotional, and I’m not an emotional person,” Houser began. “For 17 years, I’ve been told 'What are you going to do when these kids I work with stab each other in the kitchen, they don’t want to work, they just want to collect a check, they’ve never been in a nice restaurant, they can’t cook my food.'"
“This award signifies that the world is changing, and the world talks differently about them and views them differently now,” he added. “We struggle every day, but we show up every day. It’s an industry that believes in second and third and fourth chances.”
During the main event, Andrew Zimmern, who has been open about his troubled youth, presented Houser with his award. In his introduction, Zimmern reflected on his own long history in the restaurant industry and what the James Beard Awards have become.
“I learned that [these] awards are part of a much larger vision, one that celebrates culinary excellence, but one that champions everyone working for a more equitable and sustainable industry,” Zimmern said.
Zimmern became emotional himself, even muttering “fuck!” under his breath before gathering himself. Still fighting back tears, he said, “What this man does affects me and my family. It’s a personal, personal thing, and I’m a huge admirer of this human being and what he’s done for so many, especially as a formerly incarcerated person.”
Zimmern and Houser shared a long embrace on stage, and after receiving his Beard medallion, Houser also let loose with his own exasperated “fuck!” as he took in the moment. His speech could choke up the most hardened line cook, and he began by heaping praise on every person in the service industry while explaining Cafe Momentum's mission.
“I’m often asked if Cafe Momentum has to be a restaurant, and I always say, emphatically, 'Yes!'"Houser said. “Our industry is an integral part of every single community across the country. We provide a gathering space to celebrate, to grieve, and sometimes, to have a conversation that you didn’t realize needed to be had.”
Houser went on to explain just how much the youth who participate in Cafe Momentum’s programs benefit from the experience:
“For a young person in our program, coming to Cafe Momentum is significant. It’s their opportunity to be in their own space every day, full of people who come from neighborhoods far and wide. It’s in these moments that our kids begin to feel part of a larger community, with a robust network, greater resources and more opportunity. It also means in these moments that our guests get to see our kids walk in their greatness.”
“This honor tonight is an important acknowledgement that not only are these conversations happening, but that Cafe Momentum can change juvenile justice, one meal and one conversation at a time."
Houser wrapped up his speech with a call to action to his colleagues in the hospitality industry.
“My wish tonight is that this award creates more of these opportunities for the more than 60,000 children in this country that are currently incarcerated,” he said. “My hope for everybody in this room, for those 60,000 kids, they hear all of us in this room say 'We see you, we’re ready for you, we’re here for you.'"
(You can watch a replay of the full ceremony here, and Houser's segment begins at the 1:49:30 mark.)
In many ways, Dallas coming up largely empty at a major culinary awards show is par for the course. But to dwell on this most recent loss is to miss the point. Last night in Chicago, we were reminded that with Cafe Momentum, we’ve already got a winner in our backyard that’s more important and more valuable than any star or medallion could ever be.
