The fragrance of fried chicken wafts out the doors of Project Pollo, a new fast-casual eatery located on Greenville Avenue. With a vintage exterior mimicking a American fast-food chain, this spot may seem like your typical chicken vendor, when it's actually anything but.
A closer look at Project Pollo’s menu reveals that one of the main ingredients this establishment lacks is chicken. From nuggets to spicy sandwiches, this San Antonio-based chain is on a mission to mimic the staple meals that have long pervaded the fast food industry but with a fully plant-based soy protein.
A good starting point is their Chikn Nuggets (eight for $5.50), which are made with Project Pollo’s signature soy-based Chikn. Hand-breaded to order, the nuggets have a crispy exterior that crumbles in the mouth with a meaty texture that shreds when bitten into.
As equally deceiving are their Chikn wings (five for $8.50) that come with a wide variety of flavors ranging from Buffalo to garlic and herb. The wing-shaped hunks of Chikn are deep-fried then glazed with butter and spices. These have a slightly burnt flavor and a plant-based “bone” that falls off to the touch. Project Pollo’s Chikn wings capture both the flavors and textures of the real deal.
The spice lover should go for their signature Spicy Project ($7.50). Here the breaded Chikn patty is drenched in spicy garlic Buffalo sauce. Occasional kicks of spice are packed into the patty and there's a mild tanginess throughout that creates an interesting mix of flavors.
Those less fond of spice should try The Deluxe ($9), a sandwich that starts with a breaded Chikn patty, stacked with vegan Gouda "cheese," lettuce and tomato to add cool, light flavors to an otherwise meaty dish. Crispy strips of vegan “bacon” give a smoky finish to each bite.
Regardless of what appeals to you on the main menu, make sure to order a side of Project Pollo’s signature Birdy Sauce, a blend of barbecue sauce and Buffalo seasoning that's perfect for dunking nuggets, sandwiches or all of the above.
It’s difficult to believe that the 11 (and counting) Project Pollo establishments can all be traced back to a small food cart in San Antonio, which is where this project got started just a few years ago. When asked about his original intent, founder and CEO Lucas Bradbury says that it's all about "putting people over profits and offering pollo with a purpose.”
With prices comparable to those of a mainstream sandwich shop, the rapidly expanding chain hopes to make plant-based alternatives an accessible lifestyle for all.
4814 Greenville Ave., 11 a.m. - 11 p.m. Monday - Friday; 10 a.m. - 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday