| Brunch |

At Laurel Tavern, Brunch Feels Basic and the Opposite of Eco-Friendly

The patio at the new Laurel Tavern on Lowest Greenville.EXPAND
The patio at the new Laurel Tavern on Lowest Greenville.
Taylor Adams
Keep Dallas Observer Free
I Support
  • Local
  • Community
  • Journalism
  • logo

Support the independent voice of Dallas and help keep the future of Dallas Observer free.

Laurel Tavern has a beautiful patio on the east side of Lowest Greenville. The aesthetics alone make you want to go in, but if you’re looking for brunch that goes beyond “basic,” you might as well keep walking.

Brunch is served from noon to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, and Laurel Tavern gets off to a promising start with friendly staff who greet you as you walk in and offer you a seat anywhere you like. It feels like a sit-down restaurant, but you have to walk up to order. So is it fast-casual? Maybe. It’s hard to tell.

If you need a mood adjustment, you could start with the Wake Up Call cocktail ($8), with spicy tequila, coffee, Irish cream, maple syrup and chocolate bitters; or the Red Eye ($8), with Old Overholt rye, cold brew, maple syrup and barbecue bitters.

Laurel Tavern's iced coffee.EXPAND
Laurel Tavern's iced coffee.
Taylor Adams

You might as well go that route if you’re a coffee snob of any sort, because the regular black coffee tastes like it belongs in a paper cup on an airplane. There is Cuvee cold brew ($5) on the menu, but it comes with sweet cream. If you’re a purist, you might as well skip the caffeine here and walk next door to get Stumptown coffee afterward.

For those who care about “going green,” Laurel Tavern needs some work. Why a restaurant would serve dine-in coffee in a paper cup is beyond understanding if you are even remotely concerned about the environment. The cute wooden plates underneath the food are nice, but the paper on each of them is another sign of wastefulness.

Laurel Tavern offers a quick menu. If you’re craving something sweet, the lemon ricotta-stuffed French toast ($11) is a fancier version of what you can get at IHOP. The berry compote on top takes the sweetness to an extreme, which isn’t terrible if that’s what you’re into.

Lemon ricotta-stuffed French toast.EXPAND
Lemon ricotta-stuffed French toast.
Taylor Adams

The duck confit sweet potato hash ($13) has potential, with sweet onion and pepper, a sunny-up egg (a brown egg, they’ll tell you), toast and house jam.

The huevos rancheros ($11) is suitable for more savory cravings late in the morning. What seems like a little quesadilla is paired with black beans and topped with roasted tomatillo sauce and an egg.

You can add sides, such as bacon ($4), but the real thing Laurel Tavern does well is the hash browns ($4). They come in a perfectly thin layer with a crispness that’s addicting and just the right amount of salt.

Laurel Tavern's huevos rancheros.EXPAND
Laurel Tavern's huevos rancheros.
Taylor Adams

If everything were as good as the hash browns, this place would merit return visits. But at this rate, if you go, just get the potatoes and a brunch cocktail.

All that said, it’s the perfect environment for a lovely spot on Lowest Greenville, so maybe dinner is a better option. Here's hoping that menu is more exciting.

Laurel Tavern, 1920 Greenville Ave. (Lowest Greenville)

Keep the Dallas Observer Free... Since we started the Dallas Observer, it has been defined as the free, independent voice of Dallas, and we would like to keep it that way. Offering our readers free access to incisive coverage of local news, food and culture. Producing stories on everything from political scandals to the hottest new bands, with gutsy reporting, stylish writing, and staffers who've won everything from the Society of Professional Journalists' Sigma Delta Chi feature-writing award to the Casey Medal for Meritorious Journalism. But with local journalism's existence under siege and advertising revenue setbacks having a larger impact, it is important now more than ever for us to rally support behind funding our local journalism. You can help by participating in our "I Support" membership program, allowing us to keep covering Dallas with no paywalls.

We use cookies to collect and analyze information on site performance and usage, and to enhance and customize content and advertisements. By clicking 'X' or continuing to use the site, you agree to allow cookies to be placed. To find out more, visit our cookies policy and our privacy policy.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.


Join the Observer community and help support independent local journalism in Dallas.