Take a Lavish Journey Aboard Le PasSage

Late summer leading into early fall, Katy Trail visitors couldn’t hide their curiosity. Runners and walkers peered into windows and poked around patios at The Terminal at the Katy Trail, vying for a glimpse of what was to come.

In mid-October, all questions were answered when Le PasSage, an Asian-French restaurant by Travis Street Hospitality, opened its doors. The hunger-inducing aromas of Thai herbs, miso and ginger scented the air around Katy Trail, transforming the weekend fitness hotspot into one of the biggest dinner destinations of 2024.

For foodies, Le PasSage was no curiosity. Travis Street Hospitality, the group behind Le Bilboquet and the Michelin-recognized Knox Bistro and Georgie, has made 2024 a year for the books, highlighted by executive chef RJ Yoakum’s transformation of the latter.
Le PasSage invited the Observer for a culinary journey led by executive chef Hou Lam “Dicky” Fung from Hong Kong. He was previously the corporate chef at the celebrity favorite Mr. Chow, which has 15 locations across the country.

If you walk in from Buena Vista Street, Le PasSage is almost hidden. A black door with a small sign signals your destination. Inside, guests are transported to a dimly lit train carriage with jewel tones, rich woods, golden fixtures, eye-catching white rose sconces and warm lantern pendants, all setting a luxurious tone.
Most impressive is the bathroom, with its curved, tiled ceiling. A large white sink takes center stage; floral wallpaper, backlit arched vanity mirrors and gold-embellished doors are Parisian chic.

We began our meal in a cozy corner. The restaurant was slow at 6:30 p.m. but full by 7.

Owner Stephen Courseau told The Dallas Morning News that Le PasSage is a French-Asian restaurant, not fusion, offering a journey of regional cuisines. There are plenty of nods to Fung’s native Hong Kong, propped by French cooking techniques.

The appetizer menu has 13 options including traditional Cantonese steamed shrimp and pork dumplings ha gao and Chinese pork dumplings shumai — both $14 for four pieces. After contemplating the Chinese baby back ribs ($28), we opted for the scallops crudo ($24) and eggplant dumplings ($18).

The eggplant dumplings are a standout dish: Eggplant and miso are bundled inside dumplings and served atop a yuzu soy sauce. The scallops crudo, made with a creamy Thai tom kha sauce, lime oil and puffed quinoa, are refreshing.

Can’t decide on an appetizer? Try the Pullman plate ($38), an appetizer combo with two pieces of chicken satay, shrimp toast, Vietnamese spring rolls and bluefin tuna leaves.

Le PasSage’s 25-page bar menu — overseen by certified sommelier Daniel Bowman — spans cocktails, Japanese beer, sake and wine by the glass or bottle. Japan native and mixologist George Kaiho and Travis Street Hospitality executive mixologist Mario Martinez oversee Le PasSage’s Asian-inspired craft cocktail menu with spins on traditional cocktails.

That street cred behind the bar comes with a bite: all house craft cocktails are $20-plus.
The Buddha Bliss ($23) is a basil-y Paloma, and the Paper Crane ($20) is a Japanese whiskey Paper Plane. The Pandan Espresso Tini ($20) is a pandan-infused sweeter version of the traditional cocktail menu must-have.

Memoirs of a Geisha is a balanced $45 spin on a margarita served in an iron kettle, which serves two. Japanese Kikori rice whiskey adds smokiness to the margarita.

Dinner options include some shareable main courses. There’s a $180 Peking duck for four and a $95 ginger-scallion whole lobster served with Cantonese Yi-Mien noodles for two. Main courses for one include vegan braised tofu ($24), gluten-free green prawns ($34), Texas wagyu NY strip with white soy-miso butter ($58) and a herbaceous steamed halibut served with ginger beurre blanc ($44).
The tender $56 Shaking Beef with chunks of filet mignon in a subtle lime sauce is a safe bet for unadventurous eaters. The $42 five-spice duck breast comes with a well-seasoned skin and caramelized mango made for a sweet and savory bite. Pair these dishes with the fluffy fried rice ($14) and stir-fried Chinese broccoli ($16).

Pastry chef Dyan Ng concocted an innovative dessert menu for Le PasSage. The yogurt and mushroom dessert ($12) is served with a sweet almond sable cookie and made with a mushroom caramel that plays well on the tongue. The crunchy and airy smoked tea donut ($12) is comforting.
Le PasSage will soon open for brunch on a date to be determined.

Le PasSage, 4205 Buena Vista St. Sunday – Monday, 5–9 p.m.; Tuesday – Thursday, 5–10 p.m.; Friday – Saturday, 5–11.